A Jewish caterer has defied a Food Standards health warning to continue serving smoked salmon.

Top kosher caterer Arieh Wagner has scorned health warnings over potential listeriosis infection from smoked salmon issued by the Food Standards Agency (FSA).

The FSA has warned that ready-to-eat smoked fish (including smoked salmon) is too risky to eat for susceptible groups, which include the over-65’s; pregnant women and people with weak immune systems, but Wagner says it’s overblown.

Arieh Wagner

Kosher caterer Arieh Wagner (Twitter)

“Jews have been eating smoked salmon since the seas parted” commented Swiss-born Mr Wagner, who is in-house kosher caterer at the Sheraton Grand London Park Lane and operates a luxury kosher programme at the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski in Swiss mountain resort, St Moritz.

Mr Wagner told the JC that it is a regular fixture on his menus: “I don’t think there’s a function where there is no smoked salmon somewhere, whether in the reception or in the main course or in the starter. It’s one of the Jewish staples.”

The FSA has recorded eight listeriosis cases so far this year in England and Scotland. Most of the individuals affected reported eating ready-to-eat smoked fish. Mr Wagner confirmed he has no plans on removing the delicacy from his kitchens, having worked out what he sees as the actual risk using statistics on the total UK smoked salmon market as published by Statista in 2020 and an approximate price per kilo.

He put the panic down to media scare stories. “We had something like this over chicken a few years ago. Somebody has to fill a newspaper column — it makes for interesting reading.”

Listeria bacteria are commonly found in the environment but can grow on food, even if chilled in the fridge. Smoked fish, pate, cured meats, and some soft cheeses including camembert and brie have been linked with it.

For the over-65s and those with certain underlying health conditions, exposure to the bacterium that causes listeriosis can weaken their immune systems and may also result in them developing meningitis and life-threatening sepsis. In pregnant women, it can cause miscarriage and sepsis, or meningitis in newborn babies.

The warning comes after a synagogue in New York said they would stop serving smoked salmon, citing "environmental concerns" and was forced to clarify their statements.