Why you should only eat hummus in the morning and other foodie secrets of Jerusalem:

3. Warm up with sahleb
Hit Machane Yehuda (the shuk which inspired Assaf Granit and co to open their famous restaurant) for a range of reasons, one of which is to try sahleb. It’s a cuddle in a cup — the safer, older sister of the more famous malabi. A mixture of milk (dairy or almond) with (authentically) orchid flour or, cornflour, to thicken it into a pudding-like consistency. It’s served warm, flavoured with rose water and scattered with toasted coconut, ground pistachios and cinnamon. I’d finished two cups before I knew it. Of course, I was there in February when there was a chill in the air, so if the heat is on when you visit, seek out a fresh juice from the Etrog Man - also in Machaneh Yehudah. The juice mixes are divine - go for The Ram Bam's Drink, a mixture of dates plus bitter and sweet almonds.

4. Taste the best tahina
Don’t be expecting shiny modern machinery at the Al Jabrini Tahina Factory although there are a few bits of modern kit. Off one of the city’s narrow streets through weathered, wooden doors sits a tiny tahina processing plant which has been there more than 150 years. In the back room they roast the sesame seeds, cool them then grind them between huge basalt mill stones. The tahina pours into a well and is transferred into opaque jars. The degree of toasting dictates how dark and bitter the end product is, but it’s all smooth and delicious. There is also sticky, sweet silan (date syrup) which, when mixed with the tahina makes a halva-like spread that is divine on toast. Don’t leave without a jar — it’s incomparable to any supermarket tahina you can find at home.
Visits must be arranged in advance. Contact info here.

5. Sip cardamom coffee
For a memorable Middle Eastern coffee experience — and a cup of joe so thick you can almost stand a spoon up in it, drop into a sheesha and coffee bar. We visited one on Hasrayia Street close to the corner with Beit Habad Street. Old men sit solemnly sucking on the sheesha pipes – which also line the walls . Coffee is made over a Bunsen-burner-style contraption by a man with seemingly asbestos hands. The cups are warmed, and the coffee presented in a copper pouring cup. It’s fragrant with cardamom, which takes off the bitter edge. Leftover nuggets of pistachio pastries from Al Jaffar paired perfectly with the brew. Go at the right time and you’ll hear the atmospheric call to prayer echo out from a nearby mosque while vehicles trundle (too fast) up and down the narrow alleyways.

6. Have hummus for breakfast
The early bird gets the finest version of the creamy chickpea dip. It's morning food and if you visit a hummus place that is still serving after lunch, it will be, at best, meh. Another pearl of wisdom imparted by our guide, Michal. Locals eat it early and that day’s freshly made chickpea dip is gone, it’s gone. We visit a hole in the wall site down Al Khawajat Street. A tiny counter beloved of many Jerusalemites — but being Israel, everyone will have their favourite hummus haunt. We take our plate with warm stewed fava beans on one side and chick peas on the other — with a scattering of coriander. On the side, some leaves of raw onion — how many locals scoop up their dip — and some soft, pillowy pita bread, the less hard core choice. It’s delicious. Just go early.

Other top tastes to seek out:
You’ll also want to taste plump and sticky Medjool dates; brightly coloured pickled vegetables — cauliflower that’s either yellow turmeric-tinted or bright pink beetroot hued. And watch local women perched on upturned crates peddling fresh produce from their farms — we saw new season’s bright green fava beans in their pods; tiny artichokes in brine and (what looked like) chard leaves as well as giant cauliflowers and sheets of homemade fruit leathers in various flavours.