Mid/Med Mayfair luxe

London offers the biggest range of Israeli flavours this side of Tel Aviv. From Ottolenghi’s huge colourful salads and huge flavours through the creamy hummus and crunchy falafel of stand-up shawarma joints to the sophisticated spin on traditional techniques offered by Assaf Granit’s collection of eateries — it’s like the best Israeli breakfast buffet.

However, the arrival of Israel-born Roy Ner and his Mayfair restaurant, Jeru, has taken things to another level.

Ner comes to us from Sydney, where he had a successful career for 18 years, racing his way up the kitchen hierarchy at fine-dining restaurant, Aria in record time and then going on to open a number of his own restaurants.

He’d first been contacted about Jeru in February 2019 and ended up planning the space virtually from Downunder while borders were closed. He was finally able to physically put it together when he arrived in London in July 2021.

The Berkeley Street restaurant (in sauntering distance of Sexy Fish in one direction and Novikov in the other) fills a huge space, which breaks down into a coffee bar at the entrance (open from 10am) through to the restaurant with its open kitchen and downstairs bar. The vibe is luxe Mayfair with a twist of Middle East.

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Jerusalem roots rocked

We sit facing the long, open kitchen where chefs glide around each other with calm urgency. I’d been invited in to taste the Chef’s Selection menu but as the meat isn’t kosher, and my companion, broadcaster and husband, Mr P is pescatarian) we’d opted for a bespoke vegetarian with plus fish version. The maître d’ scurried off to print us off our personalised hybrid.

Anticipating a feast, we’d arrived ready to eat the table and fell upon the hot-from-the-woodfired-oven, chewy sourdough with its side of sweet truffle honey and cultured (tangy tasting) butter. I could have demolished it again.

No fear of us going hungry though. The food kept on coming — green figs and goat’s curd slathered with peppery olive oil and sticky pomegranate molasses were swiftly followed by light haloumi, ring-shaped doughnuts which were light and showered with freshly shaved black truffle (no expense spared); heirloom courgettes were thinly shaved discs neatly layered over a statement, black plate and topped with crunchy shards of toasted almond and creamy vegan feta.

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Statement plates set off simple vegetable dishes