Drinks to match Scotland's finest

So Fiona and I both look first of all to crisp, briskly acidic whites. Chablis is an obvious choice. Sancerre, or another Loire Sauvignon Blanc, is another. For me, however, a well-made Muscadet Sur Lie can deliver the goods at low cost. Try the always-consistent Fief Guérin Muscadet Sur Lie 2012 (£7.99, Waitrose).

I look second, and this may come as a shock, to beer. (Fiona does too, by the way.)

This is the only thing I would consider drinking when the salmon is riding with an inch or two of cream cheese in a freshly made bagel. It needs to be light in colour and have a good though not overpowering hint of bitterness. Leffe Blonde (£2.50/75cl, Tesco), a personal favourite, is just right.

And finally, if blini and sour cream are in close proximity to the fish, good vodka is perfect. I adore the Polish Zubrowka, flavoured with something called bison grass. It has a gently smoky edge which is the perfect foil for the richness of the fish and the sour cream. Ice-cold, please. Sold by Waitrose and Tesco among others for around £20.

See? There’s more to smoked salmon than Champagne. Fiona and I both told you so.