Lions, leopards, elephants... Zambia is known as one of the best places in Africa for wildlife. But what is less well known is the country’s Jewish history — the River Club in Livingstone, near to the Victoria Falls even has a kosher kitchen.
European Jews first came to Zambia at the end of the 19th century while it was still Northern Rhodesia, many settling in its then capital Livingstone. Early arrivals were pioneers looking for better economic opportunities; later they came as refugees fleeing Nazi persecution, mainly from Germany, Lithuania and Latvia.
Zambia was one of the few countries that welcomed them. However, when the country gained independence in 1964 there was an exodus of many who had settled there, including from the Jewish community.
The city’s Jewish Museum, a national monument, tells the story of the Jewish people who settled in and around Livingstone. Although the community was relatively small, it included significant figures in the country’s economical and political life.
Among those who stayed is Simon Zukas who played a key role in Zambia’s struggle for independence. Today he is chairman — and his wife Cynthia a member — of the Council for Zambian Jewry, an umbrella organisation for Jewish Affairs. Cynthia is also head of The Lechwe Trust that promotes, and encourages Zambian visual arts.
And for tours of the area’s Jewish heritage, Peter Jones, co-founder of luxury lodge the River Club, situated on the banks of the River Zambezi, has spent years researching the community.
As well as visiting the Jewish cemetery that he helps maintain, he showed me around the local synagogue, now a church, although a lot of the original fittings remain. He hopes in the future that the Jewish museum could be moved there.
During my tour, he pointed out where Jewish families had lived and worked, before showing books of Jewish family reunions back at the lodge.
Here, 11 suites face onto the Zambezi river; I woke to a great expanse of water in front of my own. I had been warned not to leave my windows open, and sure enough on the patio were several monkeys. In the distance, on one of the river’s many islands, an elephant was grazing, hippos were snorting in the water, and birds were tweeting.
Livingstone itself is the gateway to the Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Otherwise known as The Smoke that Thunders, it straddles both Zimbabwe and Zambia — a bridge over the Zambezi separates the two countries.
When visiting Zambia in the dry season, there is a hydro-electric dam that diverts the water, which means that the usual cascades of water aren’t there. It is worth investing in a Kaza Univisa that covers entry to both countries so visitors can cross into Zimbabwe to see the cascades in all their glory.
The falls are breathtaking, with numerous gorges and rainbows adding to the spectacle as the sun shines on the torrents of water. Worth getting drenched (despite being covered in waterproofs).
Cruising down the river is a great way of seeing the wildlife too. I was thrilled to see hippos popping their heads out of the water. Occasionally one would yawn — at which point everyone in the boat would grab their cameras although usually by then, the head would have disappeared into the water.
We spotted elephants in abundance, generally standing on the banks of the river, but occasionally crossing, and through binoculars you can spy more animals at a distance, particularly the numerous varieties of birds. Even without them, I managed to see several crocodiles.
The end of a boat trip usually coincided with the sun beginning to set, the deep red signalling time for a sundowner — the local beer, Mosi, wines from South Africa or a classic gin and tonic.
The River Club helps the local village financially as well as providing work. My guide Bevin showed me the school, recounting proudly that one of the villagers was studying to be a doctor. Alongside was the rail track for the train that passed through once a week, and from which the villagers bought groceries, and products that they didn’t grow themselves.
While being by the Zambezi here is glorious, it isn’t the same as being in the middle of the bush. So for a different taste of the river, I flew to capital Lusaka to take a small Cessna plane to the Lower Zambezi.
I stayed at two different luxury camps on the river banks, offering tailored itineraries; the stylish Anabezi and the more informal Sausage Tree.
Initially wary when told I was staying in a tent, I needn’t have worried. The only thing tent-like about this accommodation was the covering. Inside, was a large double bed, mini splash pool on the veranda and a fully fitted bathroom, with adjoining outdoor shower for a memorable shower under the stars.
Exploring the Zambezi here was by canoe. And with more hippos and crocodiles to be found in the water, it’s exploring that has to be done accompanied by a guide. In my case, Kevin also rowed which allowed me to relax and drink everything in while he circumnavigated the hippos, pointed out animals and named birds that I would certainly have missed if had I been on my own.
Wearing greens and browns to blend in — white is too visible and blue attracts tsetse flies — my most memorable moment had to be when my guide spotted several lions drinking at a water hole. We spied them again the following morning, sleeping under a tree, and were able to get almost alarmingly close to them.
Altogether I saw four of the country’s Big Five, lions, leopards, elephants, and buffalo, as well as a heritage even fewer visitors discover — making memories that will stay with me forever.
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