Visiting Denmark’s Triangle – and discovering its surprising Jewish history

I’m here to discover this relatively small area, a network of six municipalities, population 350,000, that got its name because the three bigger cities, Vejle, Fredericia and Kolding, form a triangle when connected on the map.

To begin at the beginning, it is perhaps best to understand the history of the country at the remarkable museum of Kongernes Jelling, just 27 miles east of the airport. I am lucky enough to be on a tour conducted by Adam Bak, the curator, who is one of most enthusiastic and informative guides I have ever had the pleasure to meet.

We began outside, where I found two massive runestones dating from the 10th century. The largest was written on by Harald, celebrating his conquest of Denmark and Norway, and his conversion of the Danes to Christianity - and is so important that it is identified as the first sign of the creation of Denmark as a nation state.

Adam explained that the stones are part of a mathematically precise, huge early burial site, called a “stone ship” . There are found all over Scandinavia, Germany and the Baltic States - a group of standing stones arranged in the shape of a boat. This is the largest. Adam takes us to a high point where it is possible to see it marked out, stretching out into the distance. Its wonderful to look at and understand its historical significance.

Harald, was the King of Denmark who connected all the tribes into a single kingdom, but it was his nickname based on his dental decay which is now famous. He was known as Bluetooth” and his initials “H” and “B” in in runic letters, will be remembered in posterity, since they have been adopted internationally for the symbol of the modern wireless connection known now as Bluetooth technology.

Inside, the museum has something for the whole family to explore, portraying life in the Viking age through digital sensory experiences. It is fun and hands on and uses technology to overlay artefacts with animations that show where and how things were used.

Design has always been an outstanding part of Denmark’s culture and near the seaport of Kolding is the Trapholt Museum of Modern Art and Design. Opened in 1988 it is in a beautiful setting with a sculpture garden overlooking the Kolding Fjord and now one of the largest modern art and design museums in Denmark - outside Copenhagen - displaying art, architecture and furniture.

A lot of space is given over to the significant Danish Jewish architect, Arne Jacobsen (1902–1971) who for six decades created visionary works that even today appear modern. During World War II, in 1943 scarcity of building materials and discrimination, made him flee with the help of the Danish resistance along with other Jewish Danes. He rowed a small boat across Øresund to Sweden, where he stayed for 2 years. On his return, he was in great demand, as Denmark was in urgent need of housing and new public buildings.

In 1964, Arne Jacobsen had his main international breakthrough in the UK with the design of the largest of Oxford’s colleges, St. Catherine’s, in which he combined the historical traditions of the university with modernist expression.

On display at the Trapholt is Arne’s famous “ Kubeflex holiday cottage” – a prefab house furnished with Jacobsen's own designs and the only one of its kind. It never entered production as he died in 1971. The house consists of cube-shaped elements of 10 m2 each, which can be combined into different structures that can be varied and adapted to meet individual needs and change the space of any home. I soon found it be a comfortable place, sitting on one of his famous inventions the “Egg” chair and enjoying the pretty surroundings outside the window.

Looking at the history and art makes you hungry and Denmark’s food may not be cheap, but it is healthy, good and sustainable. Café Gustav Lind at the Trapholt museum is a case in point.

In general my favourite dishes are the famous open sandwiches - and herring, often accompanied with a delicious yellow Remoulade sauce which I feel tastes a bit like Coronation Chicken.

Although Denmark has a remarkable record of saving 97 per cent of all its Jews during the II World War, we were not looked after so well in the 17th century as along with Catholics Jewish entry into the country was prohibited. Then in 1675 after the devastation caused by the Thirty Years War, King Christian IV realized the necessity of building a new town with a strong fortress. Hoping to attract financially sound people to populate it, the king decided to offer religious freedom and full economic rights, to those coming to the settlement - which was later to be named Fredericia.

Whether it is true or not, the rumour is that the king was thinking of having rich Sephardic Jews but those that arrived were poor, Ashkenazi…and from Germany! Henrick my guide says that some became butchers, having been trained as shochets.

It took years before they could afford to build a synagogue and appoint a rabbi. Eventually a synagogue was built in 1719 and later Jews from Jutland and Funen came into the town to celebrate the main festivals! The last service was held in 1902 and the building sold in 1914, as by then any Jewish people born in Denmark could live anywhere.

Today a memorial marks the place where the synagogue once stood. The cemetery is still intact. There are 550 graves with Hebrew inscriptions. It is the largest Jewish burial ground in Denmark, outside of Copenhagen, and is normally locked and it is necessary to get permission from the local museum, to gain entry. The museum also has Jewish artifacts to look at as well. 

Fredericia, Jutland, Denmark,aug 13, 2024 - The central shopping street in old town with restaurantsGetty Images

Today there is no Jewish community in Fredericia, but the remarkable story of this town and its past remain for visitors to see.

Getting There

Flights from Stansted or Manchester to Billund cost from around £30 return with Ryanair.

Double rooms at Zleep Hotel Vejle start at £95.00 https://www.zleep.com/en/

To see the Jewish cemetery in Fredericia contact the Museum https://www.fredericiahistorie.dk/side/fredericia-bymuseum