The twin strands that make up the culinary story of Chanucah are oil and cheese. We all know the story of the small cruse of oil, enough for one day which nevertheless kept the light burning in the Temple for eight days until a fresh supply of pure oil could be provided. Less well known, however, is the story of the resourceful Judith (after whom, incidentally, my mother apparently named me) who is said to have plied the Assyrian General Holofernes first with an array of delicious (and salty) cheeses, and then with copious quantities of wine to quench his thirst. As he lay in a drunken stupor, she cut off his head with his own sword, his followers fled, and Judith was henceforth considered a heroine of the Jewish people.
In memory of that monumental wine and cheese party, cheese has played as important a symbolic role in the foods of Chanukah as oil — indeed the original recipe for latkes called for cheese rather than potatoes, which did not arrive in Europe until the 15th century.
A tender, flaky cream cheese pastry is used in these Casadielles — delicious little turnovers stuffed with a buttery brandy and walnut filling from Asturias in northern Spain. They are a cousin of Ashkenazi rugelach which are also made with cream cheese pastry, but resemble Sephardi borekas in shape. Traditionally, the filling was laced with anise-flavoured brandy.
Since the pastry requires no rubbing in, they’re easy to make and quite delicious. Best of all, they can be made now and frozen for when Chanukah arrives.