Review: Summer at Eyal Shani’s Lilienblum

There are people out there who are calling for the end of small plates restaurants. They argue that the format of 6-7 small mouthfuls of vastly different foods is unwieldy and antisocial. They say that surely you just want one big plate, that this illusion of choice is just that — a mirage that convinces you that your meal was better than in was. And for a long time, I would’ve agreed. But there’s a new generation of innovative Israeli restaurants in London that continue to breathe new life into the formula. One being Lilienblum.

Another outpost in the Eyal Shani extended cinematic universe, Lilienblum is more grown up than Miznon, but less pretentious than HaSalon. Sure there’s Comic Sans on the menu (a Shani trademark) but it’s not written in riddles, it’s just descriptions of thoughtful, well-presented well put together food.

The vibe of the restaurant suits its location in Shoreditch and the bar is a great place to watch the chefs whiz around generously drizzling incredibly good olive oil on dishes as they fly off to tables. Israeli head chef Daniel Lazar seems totally in control, snacking on fresh baked challah in-between tasting dishes ready for service. There’s an energy at Lilienblum that you’ll recognise if you’ve ever eaten out in Tel Aviv. We may not have the late-night culture or the weather, but it’s nice to know there’s bit of that Israeli buzz just off the Old Street roundabout.

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The food itself is that classic new Israeli that we all know and love. Fresh, colourful, full of flavour. The bread selection of focaccia, sourdough and challah is perfect with the delicate olive oil and spicy tomato paste it comes with. The rest of the menu is divided betwen small plates and big plates and arrives at the table in no particular order — all very casual and Israeli.