Miznon review: A perfect pocketful of Tel Aviv in Soho

There are certain pockets of London in which I feel at home. One is my flat, another is the queue for Beigel Bake at 3am on a Friday night, another is when I speak to the Israeli guy in the farmers market near my house who makes falafel (@falafelerez, look him up). These places are familiar and comforting because they allow me to relax, to drop my guard, to feel like I belong.

Miznon, by the charismatic whirlwind of a chef that is Eyal Shani is another one of these places. Visiting the Soho branch, just off Tottenham Court Road, it feels like stepping into a cozy spot in Tel Aviv just off Rothschild. The vibe, like all the best Israeli places is casual. You’re encouraged to help yourself to the mounds of pillowy pitta bread and tahina, and, sitting at the cozy tables, the sound of the kitchen are amplified to give the feeling you’re sitting in a market in Israel, not a stones throw from the West End.
 

The blackboard scrawl is classic Miznon Photo: Victoria Prever[Missing Credit]

The concept of Miznon is simple. Take as many delicious things as you can find, inspired by the local cuisine, and shove them in a thick, fresh-baked pitta. It’s a formula that has worked well for Shani who has taken the Miznon brand all over the world. A map in the back of the soho location shows Miznons in Australia, Singapore and Vegas, among others.

In Soho, the smaller of the two London branches, the British inspiration is clear to see. Shani’s take on fish and chips, a spicy, crispy, vinegary masterpiece is more Bat Yam than Blackpool, but it’s a triumph all the same. He also has maybe the most refined kebab in Soho, again wrapped in the best pitta in central London and washed down with an assortment of Israeli-inspired cocktails (most of which contain Arak.)