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Under the sea

Eating under the waves at Europe’s first underwater restaurant in Norway

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If you imagine an underwater restaurant, it’s probably the tropical seas of the Maldives rather than the North Sea which spring to mind. But new underwater restaurant, Under, which opened off Norway’s south coast at Lindesnes is the world’s largest, and Europe’s first.

And unlike some predecessors which look out on aquariums, the view from its 11-metre wide picture window is of the local marine life – something reflected in the menu.

“We’re not focusing on turbot, but the local fish diners see,” says Scandinavian chef Nicolai Ellitsgaard of the 18-course, £200 set menu. The restaurant can also cater for diners with dietary requirements given two weeks' notice.

The building looks rather like a posh spaceship crashed into a rock, but entering the restaurant feels more like walking into a sauna, thanks to acres of oak panel cladding. Harvested from a local forest, it was picked for its warmth by starchitects Snohetta (famous for their work at New York’s Ground Zero) to contrast with the rough concrete exterior.

This consists of a 34-metre long, 1,600-ton tube built outside in the bay. Towed into its current position, the restaurant is now anchored five metres deep, resembling a sunken periscope.

From cloakroom level above the water, where a rose-coloured ceiling mimics sunset, you descend via a spectacular oak staircase to the stylish Champagne bar. Its main feature is a window facing the waterline, through which you can gaze on the fish, crabs, kelp and other sea-life below while admiring the lapping waves and rocks above.

Then it’s down to the underwater dining room, where the marine life includes colourful wrasse, cod, ling and sea trout, much of it destined for the menu.

“We intend to use all the heritage of the sea,” says owner Stig Ubostad. Ling, for example, usually has the head discarded despite its juicy throat meat – something the restaurant plans to serve.

Stig and his brother Gaute, who funded the £6.2 million restaurant from their hospitality empire, also expect at least half the diners to book into their business hotel opposite – its rather more basic rooms are a distinct contrast to the utter luxury of Under, with its bespoke tables and chairs, hand-made ceramic plates and fine crystal.

A better alternative might be the stylish new hotel that’s due to open in May in Mandal, around a half hour drive away.

But wherever they intend to sleep, thousands have joined the waiting list for cancellations; Under is virtually booked out till September.

 

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