My husband, not a fan of spa hotel chic, is rolling his eyes at the towelling robe-clad guests checking in alongside us at reception. We’re going to need some help winding down.
It doesn’t take long. Steam wafts from open-air whirlpools, the air is fragrant with orange blossom and waiters glide around with trays of fizz and cocktails at Sopwell House Hotel’s award-winning Cotton Mill Spa.
There may not be any ancient baths remaining in nearby St Albans (site of the Roman city of Verulamium) but its ancient townspeople would have been right at home here, although automatic glass panel that slides back to allow bathers to swim from the landscaped outdoor area to the indoor pool might have been mildly alarming.
The hotel, one of only two top-flight venues in this corner of the county, is a favourite for north-west Londoners for afternoon tea and some of us have been invited to simchahs here. But how many of us have considered it for a spa weekend?
It certainly has a beguiling history. The first records of the site are in the 1600s. During the early 20th century, it was leased by Lord Mountbatten as his family home and the Georgian building was converted to a hotel in 1969. Current owners Abraham Bejerano and sons Rafi and Alon bought it in 1986 and have pumped millions into refurbishing the rooms, restaurants, bar and health club.
The Mews Suite at Sopwell House Hotel
We stay in a second-floor Corner Suite, which has a large bedroom and dressing area and foilage-filled views of the trees outside from the balcony. Sheets with super-high thread counts and velvet-clad cushions whisper luxury, making it hard to drag ourselves downstairs.
But we do, and I can report that Octagon bar cocktail menu matches any central London venue. Sipping my tequila and citrus Righteous Princess I make a note to remember the place for local drinks.
Dinner time: Sopwell House restaurant
The hotel’s upmarket Asian Fusion restaurant Omboo has a similarly West End vibe and at 7.30pm is buzzing. It’s not cheap, but the food’s delicious. Fried cauliflower with coriander is punchy and firm-textured; truffle spring rolls are crisp and more-ish. Mapo tofu, slathered in spicy soybean sauce, Omboo fried rice and a portion of deliciously tender and caramelised edged black cod leave us almost unable to squeeze in orange cardamom cake, chocolate mousse and pannacotta from the mini-dessert platter.
After 24 hours we’re relaxed and 20 minutes after check-out we’re home. Tis easy to overlook what’s on your doorstep.
sopwellhouse.co.uk
