The quieter side of Mykonos

The peacock’s shrill cry floated out from the undergrowth, carrying over the sound of the waves. Nearby, queues of cars had already started to form for the opening night of Scorpios, one of the biggest beach clubs on Mykonos, where the birds can be found looking equally at home as the celebrities often propping up the bar.

Just what you might expect from Mykonos: hedonism, excess, glamour — and crowds. But you don’t have to look far to find a quieter side to the island.

Sitting with my feet in the sand of Paraga beach at Nikolas Taverna, I had found a restaurant that has kept its traditional side among the glitz and bling, with fresh fish and classic mezze on the menu alongside some very sippable Greek wine, which couldn’t be further from memories of retsina.

And away from the coast, there are still plenty of chances to taste of the island’s traditional way of life from the days before Jackie Onassis put this quiet spot in the Aegean firmly on the map.

Stepping into Rizes Folklore Farmstead, just over a mile outside the peaceful village of Ano Mera, the first thing you notice is the sense of peace: apart from a few enthusiastic cockerels still crowing well after dawn, there’s little to disturb the tranquillity.

The farm’s name translates as “roots” and that’s just what you’ll find, with a chance to see a traditional home and workshops, as well as enjoy activities such as cooking classes.

Furnished with pieces belonging to the owners’ families, the small buildings are cool and shady inside, designed for a time before air-conditioning and electricity. In one sits a huge earthenware jar of pungent vinegar, along with horns and tools to make tsabouna, the Greek version of bagpipes.

Elsewhere a loom stands ready, loaves cool in the bakehouse and at harvest time, grapes from the vineyard are still crushed underfoot in the pink-washed trough.

mykonos-town-CREDIT CathyWinston

Mykonos Town (Photo: Cathy Winston)

This is a working farm, and vegetables from the fields and freshly laid hen’s eggs are used for the cookery class, with vegetarian recipes to try, given some advance notice. Many dishes already are: the fresh tzatziki we whipped up was easily the best I’ve tried, and reminded me how easy it is to make, requiring just some quick grating and mixing.

Sweet pastry raviole took only a little more work — beating a local ricotta-like soft cheese with orange juice and honey before spooning it into our handmade pastry, which is then rolled thin and folded into parcels to be fried and then dusted with cinnamon.

Other dishes featured “secret ingredients”, from a splash of ouzo to a local herb mix. This was all devoured in the shade of the courtyard alongside the farm’s fresh bread and salad.

It would be easy to stay longer and tick off some of the other activities; riding sessions out into the countryside, bread-making, and tours of the quiet northern side of Mykonos, discovering secluded beaches and the island’s beautiful wilder scenery.

There are still a few stretches of sand where you won’t find glitzy beach clubs and high-priced loungers: around ten minutes east, Lia beach is ideal if you want a quieter atmosphere but still a few facilities, while in the far west, you’ll need your own towel for unspoiled Kapari beach.

For some low-key indulgence, the chilled-out vibe of Alemagou beach club is also tempting — a pair of loungers and parasol will still set you back at least 100 euros, but the laid-back atmosphere is a far cry from the thumping beats elsewhere.

I was quite content to lounge by the poolside at our own hotel, the newly opened Amyth of Mykonos, which is the perfect location to explore the less-visited sides of the island and escape the crowds.

mykonos-amyth-hotel-pool-CREDIT CathyWinston

Pool at Amyth of Mykonos (Photo: Cathy Winston)

It’s the first opening outside Cyprus from the Thanos hotel group, known for its stylish properties such as the Anassa and Alymra, and the first in the Amyth Hotels brand.

Perched on a hilltop near the village of Agios Stefanos, the boutique hotel has 17 one-bedroom suites looking out to the Aegean — the hot tub on the balcony of my own room had fabulous sunset views, while others have plunge pools on their private terrace.

Everything feels designed to help you relax: calming earth tones in the rooms and around the property, lamps made from natural materials and furnishings using a mix of marble and wood with black detailing.

The emphasis is firmly on the chic side of rustic chic though, with Acqua di Parma toiletries, huge rainhead showers and an espresso machine in the suites, plus edible flowers scattered over dishes from the restaurant.

The unfailingly friendly staff also manage the trick of always being to hand if you need something — a taxi transfer, another Citrus Crown cocktail, your sun parasol opening — and being entirely unobtrusive when you don’t.

With a spa room for massages, and compact outdoor gym with private yoga and personal training sessions on offer, you needn’t sacrifice wellness for indulgence, although the hotel’s small boutique, Kult, stocks designer beachwear if your happy place is poolside or on the sand at Agios Stefanos beach.

The Amyth Kouzina restaurant means you don’t even have to leave to eat — try the deconstructed spanakopita while you’re there — but if you do, the drive to Mykonos Town and Old Port takes less than ten minutes.

Amyth of Mykonos Delos Sea View Suite with Jetted Tub CREDIT Amyth of Mykonos

Sea view suite at Amyth of Mykonos (Photo: Amyth of Mykonos)

Save some time to stroll the famously twisting streets, designed to confuse invading pirates; getting lost here is half the pleasure.

The island’s iconic 16th-century windmills act as a handy landmark overlooking the town, while cooling sea breezes warn you if you’re approaching the harbour. And between the big-name clubs and equally big-name designers such as Dior and Louis Vuitton, souvenir shops, bars with a view and bakeries entice you to step inside.

This is all best avoided during peak season though, when you can easily find half a dozen cruise ships docked and a ten-minute stroll takes ten times longer, as crowds jostle for space in the whitewashed alleys.

Far better to visit in spring or autumn, when bougainvillea adds its splash of colour to the white and blues, and there’s a good chance of a table at the waterside bars of Little Venice.

From the port, ferries cruise to the other islands of the Cyclades, with snorkelling boat tours and sunset cruises on offer too. Or travel still further back in time with a trip to the island of Delos.

Half an hour away by boat, this ancient site was once busier and a more sought-after place than Mykonos is today. Around 20 times smaller than the main island at less than 1.5 square miles, its population once reached 27,000 — double the permanent inhabitants currently living on Mykonos.

mykonos-pixabay2061984

View of Mykonos Town and port (Photo: Pixabay)

An important trade centre, that population included its own Jewish community, with the earliest synagogue of the Jewish diaspora unearthed there.

There’s some dispute over precisely where the site of the synagogue was, and sadly, it’s not recommended to visit this area; away from the main site and tour routes, you’d need to walk through thick undergrowth to reach it — and as the island is home to vipers, venturing off the main paths to explore isn’t a good plan.

By the time the synagogue was built in the 1st century BCE, Delos had already long been considered a sacred site. The legendary birthplace of the Greek sun god Apollo, and his twin sister Artemis, goddess of the moon, the sacred lake where their mother Leto gave birth is now planted with tamarisk trees.

Only the ruins of the three temples in the Sanctuary of Apollo remain, but it’s not hard to visualise how important this site once was.

Inhabited since the third millennium BCE, by the 2nd century BCE grand villas lined the narrow streets of the theatre quarter, with huge mosaics in the central courtyard and elegant statues to impress visitors.

High-ceilinged rooms stayed cool in summer, when trading in the tax-free Roman port was at its height, and people flocked here from across the ancient world — including Africa and the Middle East, along with Greece and Italy.

Giant cisterns provided drinking water, while both public and private banks once oiled the wheels of commerce, and the island’s theatre provided entertainment and education to audiences of more than 5,000.

mykonos-delos--lionsCREDIT CathyWinston

Lion statues on Delos (Photo: Cathy Winston)

Many finds are on display at the museum, which is currently closed for renovation and not expected to reopen before 2024, though you can see replicas of the famous lion statues and some of the mosaics.

Only a few centuries after the civilisation on Delos was at its peak, repeated attacks by hostile outsiders meant most of the inhabitants left to find safer sites to trade, no longer trusting in the protection of the gods.

By the 7th century, the island was abandoned and today the only permanent inhabitants are cats, brought over to catch snakes, plus a few peacocks, their cries echoing in the hills here as well.

Given the choice between overcrowded beach clubs and timelessly peaceful Greek scenery, who can blame them for wanting to escape too?