Like cruises but not crowded mega ships? Our more intimate and leisurely experience started on the dock in Porto after an early morning flight from London. And if we had to wait until mid-afternoon to get into our cabin on the AmaDouro, that was as stressful as things got for the next seven days.
On AmaWaterways’ second ship in Portugal — one of the smallest on the European cruise market with barely 50 staterooms and suites, most including outside balconies — we sailed serenely to the country’s northern tip (and back), passing verdant and sparsely populated areas of natural beauty that are largely off the tourist map.
Initial impressions of our cabin, one of those with a balcony, were that it was cosy to the point of small. As we unpacked, however, we realised that the intelligent arrangement of cupboard and additional storage space meant our clothes and other holiday essentials were comfortably accommodated.
Given the compact size of the AmaDouro, it doesn’t take long to get your bearings — along with the upper deck, dining area and lounge, there was also a small gym, which saw minimal use throughout the week from the 85 passengers, mostly American.
From the chatter at the welcome briefing, it was clear that a significant number of our fellow travellers were AmaWaterways’ regulars — and some had come in groups.
As cruise first-timers, we momentarily did feel literally all at sea. Which is probably why we were tardy in the rush for the opening night dinner as guests established dibs on the window seating. We did, though, find a table for two, and a waiter, Afonso, whose smiling efficiency was a highlight of our week.
The deal is that dinner is waiter service and breakfast and lunch are buffet-based, although your server brings hot drinks at breakfast and your lunchtime alcohol and soft drinks.
We found the food uniformly decent with a wide choice of fish and vegetarian dishes. The salads were particularly good and, alas, the puddings and cakes were pretty much irresistible.
Afonso assiduously refilled our glasses with a rotating selection of very quaffable wines from the region and the post-prandial port became a welcome staple of the voyage.
These drinks (and mealtime beers) are included in the package price, as are the pre-dinner “sip and sail” selection of cocktails, wine and spirits served in the lounge. Tea, coffee and water are available 24/7.
No sooner had we found our sea legs, we were back on dry land for the first of our daily excursions, which are also included in the holiday cost.
This tour of Porto took in its famous bridges, its railway station with intricate tiled murals depicting Portuguese history and transport progression, a cable car ride and, naturally, a port tasting at the premises of one of the many familiar brand names which stand cheek by jowl on the waterfront.
Having previously visited the city, I thought I knew a fair bit about its history and key monuments. In reality, I’d barely scratched the surface as our local guide, Sara, imparted all manner of fascinating nuggets.
The quality of the guides, whether specialist or from Ama’s in-house team, were another major plus of the week.
Given both the age profile of cruise regulars and the steep and hilly terrain of northern Portugal, there were various alternatives on offer for expeditions involving anything beyond minimal walking, including the chance to enjoy more of the route from the comfort of a coach.
So, for example, when passengers visited the imposing town of Lamego — where a baroque 686-step staircase leads from its apex, the sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, to its cafes and other monuments — you could choose to be conveyed and avoid the climb. Mind you, those who did missed some spectacular scenery.
Other highlights included a trip to the historic village of Castelo Rodrigo, proclaimed by its church as the scene of “800 years of troubled, cultural and social history”, where we happened upon the remains of a mikve, evidence of a once thriving Jewish community.
Jews were initially expelled from Portugal in the late 1400s, but latterly forced to remain and convert to Christianity. Those who stayed took the names of animals, insects and trees.
Another option was the Portuguese word for saint, Santo, which our guide said was a name within his family. The guide also pointed out that Portugal paid an economic price as Jewish scientists fled to the Netherlands, which became the next nautical power.
At the midway point, we ventured by coach into Spain, past the most informal of border demarcations, a small roadside sign with a P on one side and an E (for Espana) on the other.
Our destination was Salamanca, nicknamed the Golden City for the glow of its sandstone buildings. Our tour focused on its university, the oldest in Spain and one of the oldest in Europe, with an 800-year history.
A further high spot, in all senses, was Favaios, 630 metres above sea level, where we savoured some fabulous Moscatel — and an equally impressive lunch — at Avessada Enoteca, a winery with views to kill for.
With multiple tours on some days, there was little chance for boredom to set in. When we did have some down time during daylight hours, it was relaxing just to sit on our balcony, watching the changing views as the AmaDouro made its stately progress — the total distance covered was a mere 132 miles.
It was also strangely compelling to watch the crew expertly navigate through the locks along the route.
All we might have changed was the on-board entertainment in the evening, which wasn’t really to our taste (in fairness, this was a minority opinion). Instead we would wander out from wherever the ship was docked.
The stop-offs mostly resembled one horse towns where the horse is considering putting in his exit papers — but there was invariably a bar or two. And for those looking to escape the crowds, both the intimate feel of our cruise and the tranquillity of these surroundings hold serious appeal.
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