Michigan's secret side

Picture Michigan and the image in mind is probably rather more urban than sand dunes, lakes and cherry trees. But venture out to the base of the 17-mile-long Old Mission Peninsula, between the western and eastern arms of Grand Traverse Bay, and you’ll find precisely that, around Traverse City.

The bay itself links up to Lake Michigan — the largest lake in the world entirely within one country — while Traverse City goes by the nickname of “Cherry Capital of the world”. A blend of America old and new, white picket fences give way to impeccably maintained lawns in its leafy suburbs, while downtown over 200 boutiques, restaurants, galleries, antique shops, cafés and bars line a charming high street.

It’s even home to the state’s oldest continuously operating synagogue. Temple Beth Shalom was built in 1885 in typical American fashion of white wood panels and gable roof. And while you shouldn’t expect to be surrounded by kosher butchers, Traverse City’s Jewish community of approximately 70 families is small and vibrant.

There is also Chabad of Traverse City, a branch of Chabad of Michigan, which was established earlier this year and which can sometimes be seen on the city’s high street handing out invites to barbecues and other community events.

Visit in July or August, and Traverse City and the surrounding countryside becomes a veritable mecca for all the cherry lovers of the world during its National Cherry Festival.

Thousands flock to this eight-day extravaganza of parades, outdoor concerts, air shows, dog shows, rides and more, all the while indulging in every cherry-flavoured accoutrement one could possibly think of (the cherry-flavoured salsa was delectable, cherry peanut butter less so).

Girl pit-spitting in Glen Arbor CREDIT Daniel Ben-David

Girl pit-spitting in Glen Arbor (Photo: Daniel Ben-David)

All this amid wide blue skies, vast unspoiled wilderness, the nation’s longest freshwater shoreline, sugar-sand beaches and a landscape that has plenty to tempt during every season.

Because the Great Lakes have much in common with the sea, such as rolling waves, sustained winds, strong currents and great depths, Traverse City enjoys a micro-climate of especially long growing seasons; not only ideal for producing rich, juicy cherries — with the trees growing naturally and abundantly throughout the region — but also for growing grapes.

Situated on the 45th parallel, along with Bordeaux in France and the wine-growing regions of Italy, Traverse City also has one of the country’s most creative and experimental wine, microbrewing and distillery scenes.

With more than 40 wineries in the region and 13 breweries within a ten-mile radius of downtown Traverse City alone — there’s even a kayak brew tour to discover them — there really is something for every palate. If you stop in Right Brain Brewery, be sure to check out its Blue Magic lavender beer and the Cherry Pie Whole (yes, that’s made with an entire slice of cherry pie!).

Nowhere is the region’s love of wine better exemplified than on Old Mission Peninsula, a rolling green landscape of grape, lavender and cherry fields, dotted with some of the most spectacular, tranquil — and dare I say Instagram-worthy — wineries in the country.

In the summer, there are countless opportunities for outdoor activities, especially on the water, with something for both the adrenaline-seekers of the family, and the more cautious. Known informally as the Golf Coast of the Midwest, you can find 18 golf courses within a 15-mile radius of Traverse City. Or, for those who prefer cycling to driving, the area is home to hundreds of miles of world-class biking trails.

Mission Point lighthouse CREDIT Daniel Ben-David

Mission Point Lighthouse (Photo: Daniel Ben-David)

If, like me, you want to operate at a slower pace, wander off to paddle or fish in the pristine water of the Great Lake or relax on a secluded beach within one of the hundreds of natural coves. If you’re seeking the light, why not tour Mission Point Lighthouse, a particularly shining example of one of Michigan’s 129 lighthouses — more than any other US state.

In the winter, ice fishing, cross-country snowshoeing, snowmobiling or skiing at Crystal Mountain, a world-class ski resort and spa, are all on the cards too.

Just two minutes’ walk from the lakeshore, and the same distance to local shops, Hotel Indigo’s spacious rooms make the perfect base. Don’t miss a drink at the hotel’s rooftop bar too, with perhaps the best view of the bay in the city.

To the northwest lies the heavily forested Leelanau County and Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a federally protected 72,000-acre national park that was named the most beautiful place in America by Good Morning America.

With more than 100 miles of hiking trails, plus kayaking and canoeing on the park’s 26 inland lakes, as well as 64 miles of beaches, Sleeping Bear is also home to more than 200 migratory bird species, bears, wolves and other endangered species.

The park is also known for its monumental scalable sand dunes, the geographical feature that gives it its name.

sleeping-bear-dunes-daniel-del-real-6lKfr6FPoNU-unsplash

Sleeping Bear Dunes (Photo: Unsplash)

All this under one of the darkest, star-studded skies to be found anywhere in the northern United States. The Great Lakes, which surround northern Michigan and Traverse City on three sides, keep the sky free of light pollution and provide the perfect conditions for stargazing. If you’re lucky, you can even see the Northern Lights.

If you’d rather be transported back in time than space, Mackinac Island sits between Michigan’s Upper and Lower Peninsula. A historically significant fur trading post, all motorised vehicles are banned from driving on the island and after extensive historical preservation efforts to conserve its architecture, the island has become a popular tourist attraction.

The place to stay is the luxurious Victorian Grand Hotel, which claims to have the world’s longest porch at more than 200 metres long.

Or spend some time at The Village at Grand Traverse Common, one mile south of Traverse City, set within a 480-acre wooded park. This sprawling, castle-like former Victorian mental asylum has been rebuilt and transformed into a range of apartments, boutique shops, galleries, and high-quality restaurants.

One of those, the family-run Sugar2Salt, sources everything locally — often from their own back garden — with the menu changing daily, depending on what is ripe, available and in season. Its risotto is the best I’ve ever had. And all to a backdrop that would have Stephen King salivating.

As many visitors will fly in and out of Detroit, it’s worth saving some time to discover this city’s revival too.

Detroit river and Canadian border CREDIT Daniel Ben-David

Detroit (Photo: Daniel Ben-David)

Best known by petrolheads as the birthplace of the modern automobile industry and by music-lovers as the city that bared its soul to the world through the sounds of Motown, there’s plenty beyond cars and chart-toppers.

You could lose hours admiring the 100-plus galleries and more than 65,000 works of art in the Detroit Institute of Arts, or tour the remarkable 12-acre Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation, where iconic objects from American history — from Rosa Parks’ bus to the chair Lincoln was assassinated on — are on display.

You won’t be short of places for a drink, ranging from dive bars to swanky rooftop terraces, but if you’re after a more local experience, The Congregation lies just blocks away from where the likes of Aretha Franklin and Diana Ross grew up. This chapel and garden-turned-local community events space and coffee house has regular activities ranging from outdoor markets and art exhibitions to dancing and cook-outs.

But for the state’s real temptations leave the big city behind. With seemingly more US flags than people, and as many friendly handshakes as slices of cherry pie, Traverse City is infectiously, unapologetically all-American — and a complete contrast to most people’s first image of Michigan.