The only thing which could transport you more vividly to the lost world of Spain’s Sephardic heyday than visiting Cordoba’s atmospheric Jewish quarter, is sleeping in a house which has stood since that time.
Casas de la Juderia is a collection of interlocking townhouses which have been bought for posterity, sympathetically spruced up and transformed into a four-star hotel. And whether it was once home to merchants revelling in spacious rooms or artisans crammed into tenements, what’s certain is that the original 14th century occupants were Jewish.
The location can’t be beaten; right in the heart of the quarter, whose authenticity is guaranteed by special street marker plaques, it’s also within an easy stroll of the Mezquita, the great mediaeval mosque which is this enchanting city’s biggest sightseeing draw.
Jews and Muslims lived in peace in Cordoba during Andalucia’s golden age, and you can see Stars of David carved inside the mosque by Jewish stonemasons who proudly marked their faith while signing their names. A mediaeval synagogue, due to reopen soon after renovations, is even closer to the hotel.
And Casas de la Juderia makes the most of its heritage. Rooms are full of classic Spanish touches: carved furniture, red and gold upholstery, ornate embossed leather headboards, beamed ceilings and wrought iron balcony railings at the tall windows.
They range from large suites to small twin rooms with facing beds, and some rooms are equipped with whirlpool baths, although our bathroom was small if absolutely functional. There is free WiFi for all.
The outdoor public spaces are the real stars of this lodging - elegant tiled corridors lead to endless courtyards in which to read, relax or enjoy a local beer from the honesty bar.
Finding your room in this network of connected houses can be the only tricky part, as you’ll need to find the right lift first.
The hotel provides some helpful clues with colour-coding - one house has blue doors and windows, in another they are painted maroon and yet another has woodwork picked out in the turquoise which is the traditional colour of Cordoba. All very fetching against the whitewashed walls.
There’s also an attractive pool, babysitting and massage by appointment. One small gripe is that breakfast is served underground, rather than in one of the many beautiful courtyards – sitting among the foliage and fragrance would make a stunning start to the day.
The breakfast itself features eggs and other hot breakfast items, alongside a cold buffet with some organic dishes but the modern windowless room feels at odds with the gracious, old-world atmosphere above ground.
While no other meals are served, except snack service to the pool and patios, a three-minute walk away lies Casa Mazal, where live flamenco guitar accompanies delicious Judeo-Spanish dishes such as artichokes braised in olive oil. Here, served in the restaurant’s own lovely courtyard.
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