With the announcement that Gleneagles, that grande dame of Scottish boltholes, had been sold to the owners of the Hoxton Hotel who brought chic to Shoreditch, the cry must have gone up all over the land: "It's not broke - for heaven's sake don't fix it!"
For while slightly outdated in places and not the least bit edgy, this five-star palace has been delighting families for more than 90 years. It has big, baronial bedrooms, three championship golf courses and the best restaurant in Scotland, not to mention its own horses, falcons, gun dogs, off-road vehicles and all else required for country pursuits. Add to that an Espa spa, gym, indoor and outdoor pools and a wood-fired pizza oven, and you have a pretty irresistible proposition.
There's even a gloriously retro Gleneagles railway station, which can make getting to the resort a painless ride from King's Cross; otherwise the resort is an easy hour's drive from Edinburgh airport. Once arrived, though, don't be afraid to ask to see a selection of bedrooms before parking your suitcase. Traditionalists may prefer the main house, ideally with a view of the Glendevon hills. Front or rear views are a tad less thrilling, but all the main house rooms are super-comfortable and truer to the spirit of Gleneagles than the stylish but somewhat soulless rooms of the modern extension.
The new block has, however, added a great family dining option in Deseo, which offers tapas, pasta and authentic Mediterranean favourites - including that wood-fired pizza.
But for the full experience you can't beat the Strathearn, a huge but intimate Art Deco dining room where they still take Dover sole off the bone at tableside and flambé crêpes suzette to order. It's the two-Michelin-star Andrew Fairlie restaurant which has been voted Scotland's best - a gastronomic experience well worth the accolade.
New owners Ennismore may want to improve the retail arcade and concierge service, which can be patchy, but the only real fault with Gleneagles is the porridge - served inexplicably mushy rather than nutty in true Scottish tradition. But on request, they did get in proper pinhead oatmeal and cooked it to perfection the next day; that's the nature of the top-flight, personal service which distinguishes this national treasure.
