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Greece for grown-ups in Zakynthos

Our writer leaves the kids at home to find a more sophisticated side to Zante

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‘You’re going to Zante??” gasped our student son, eyebrows steepling into a triangle of incredulity. “But that’s a party place… it’s for, er, young people.”

Well, Max was right on one point. Zante — or as the Greeks call it, Zakynthos — does have a reputation as a magnet for wannabe Love Islanders. But to dismiss this idyllic place in the Ionian cluster of islands off the west coast of Greece as nothing more than that, would be to miss a trick.

What’s more, thanks to the presence of some choice adult-only accommodation it is — ironically — a perfect place to go without children.

So since our brood were otherwise engaged thanks to summer camps, youth leadership or trekking around the likes of Vietnam, Zakynthos exerted an irresistible pull.

It’s not merely the child-free hotels which determined our choice though. For Zakynthos is a lovely island to explore, rich in culture and history, with pristine white beaches, translucent seas and exceptionally pretty villages.

In some ways, it would be almost too much for youngsters who want simply to shlof and sunbathe by day and then party by night.

Indeed, there were many moments when my husband Martin and I would chuckle at how the kids might find our holiday as far from partying as a geography field trip.

Like the time we sweated on bikes around the hills encircling Zakynthos town (the island’s capital) determined to find the Jewish cemetery — Jews have been present in Greece since at least the fourth century BCE.

Or when we spent a leisurely afternoon touring the delightful Therianos organic farm in the centre of the island, which cultivates and creates gorgeous local products such as raisins, olive oil and honey.

More glamorous was our hotel, the uber luxurious Lesante Blu in the picturesque village of Tragaki. Lolling by the infinity pool or lounging on the hotel’s beach, the attention to detail is wonderful, the quiet disturbed only by a helpful member of staff proffering a glass of iced water.

For Jews, Zakynthos places itself on the map for other reasons, not least thanks to an extraordinary wartime story.

For the island’s 275 strong Jewish community was spared deportation to the Nazi death camps after its Metropolitan Bishop, Chrysostomos Savvatos, and Mayor, Lucas Carrer, refused to submit a list of names of all the Jews that lived on the island to the occupiers.

Meanwhile, the bishop and the mayor informed the Jewish community ‘s leader of the German plans, prompting a massive operation to hide them in villages, farms and homes of Christians. All the island’s Jews were saved.

Visiting the small memorial statue outside Zakynthos town which commemorates the bravery of these two men was utterly moving.

Halfway through our ten-day trip, we tore ourselves away to catch the ferry and spend three days on neighbouring Kefalonia, indulging in more adult-only accommodation, this time at the Petani Bay Hotel. Small but exquisite, it’s located high above Petani Beach, voted one of the top 10 beaches in Greece and famed for its sunset

The hotel itself was a taste of paradise; another dazzling infinity pool, gardens crammed with fragrant herbs and olive trees and more marvellous service.

It was an effort to pull ourselves away and visit some of Kefalonia’s sites, not least Melissani Lake, a glorious natural wonder located deep within a cave. When sunlight spills down onto the shimmering water, the spectrum of azure blues is dazzling.

Or to dawdle around the horseshoe shaped bay of Assos, a picture postcard village which easily gives the Amalfi Coast a run for its money.

Flying home from Zakynthos, we managed to cram in a little more sightseeing when we returned to our second base at the brand new Olea All Suite Hotel.

Its mix of modern décor and traditional Hellenic touches also came with a tropical island feel, especially the swim-up suites, where you step from your balcony directly into the pool.

After spotting jaw-dropping selfie opportunities along the hilly coastal roads, we took to the water again.

From the exposed cove of Shipwreck Beach, reached only by sea and enclosed within large steep white cliffs, our boat took us to the nearby Blue Water caves, wonderful geological formations which take their names from the distinctive turquoise of the sea.

Plunging into the waters for a quick dip as our driver looked on benignly was about as close to Love Island’s party feel as we needed.

 

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