Ski resorts normally resound to the constant hum of shuttle buses, the excitable shouts of tourists racing to be first to the lifts and the unbearable boom of Eurotrash pop echoing from a myriad of bars.
But Maria Alm is different. Morning is gently broken by the peal of church bells and children giggling on their way to school, the pace of life - off the slopes, anyway - rarely revs up and the smiles of the locals are never forced. It doesn't matter how good the snow is, how ravishing the scenery, this is village life at its most comforting and authentic.
It's one of the reasons Maria Alm, a small Austrian resort close to the border with Germany, is often referred to as a "hidden gem". Yes, that's an overused phrase but this municipality, nestled in the middle of the Hochkoenig ski region, is the perfect example of the sleepy, small resort ski fans thought no longer existed in Europe.
That's not to say the skiing is sleepy. There's 150km of piste in this area, stretching up past Dienten to Muhlbach, and it's only a short, free bus ride from Maria Alm before you're at the gateway to perfectly groomed runs for all abilities. In truth, the most experienced skiers may, after the first three days, have covered most of the more demanding challenges - although the 32km Konigstour, a full day's
red and blue sloped adventure with some stunning backdrops, is a must for all those whose legs can take it.
But the resort is perfect for beginners, families or those who prefer to take things at a slightly more leisurely pace. New lifts, many of which are equipped with free wi-fi, have transformed this area, once the preserve of locals and those in the know.
Getting there
Package: Crystal Ski Holidays offers a week's stay at the family-run Hotel Gasthof Niederreiter in Maria Alm from £619 per person (based on two sharing) including flights from Gatwick and transfers departing in January 2016.
Direct flights available from all major UK airports; 2-for-1 equipment available for a limited period only.
More info: www.hochkoenig.at, www.salzburgerland.com
There's plenty of off-piste and your lift pass covers the full Ski Amadé area, including Schladming and the Gastein Valley, which expands the available area to 860km of slopes. It's pockmarked with a wide variety of stopping-off points, and larger canteens and tiny chalets offering traditional food nestled behind tree-lined slopes.
But the real beauty of this area - especially for Brits like me who hate the endless, boisterous, chaotic queues that mar so much of the Alps' best resorts - is that even at the height of the season, and especially the further from Maria Alm you manage to reach, the lines are remarkably thin.
The snow is reliable, the pistes extremely well cared for, and the tuition is far friendlier than at some of the larger resorts where instructors tend to give a convincing impression of preferring to be anywhere else. The charming, pretty village itself is full of family-friendly activities, including tobogganing and horse-drawn sleigh rides. But it's the ambience that will linger long after you've returned home. Cobbled streets, winding rivers, timber-clad traditional buildings and a picturesque village that hasn't sold its soul to tourism. And long may that remain so.
Overseeing the myriad of bars and restaurants is the aforementioned Pilgrimage church, the highest in this Salzburg region, with its 76-metre steeple. And the accommodation, while basic and comfortable, is extremely welcoming. The Hotel Niederreiter, in the heart of town is homely by day, a little livelier at night, perfect for families. What's more, because Maria Alm is still relatively unknown, prices are far less exorbitant than you'd find in the rest of Austria.
Food is relatively familiar and nothing to write home about - schnitzels, pasta and kaiserschmarren - but there are some especially good restaurants. The Gasthof Jufen, for instance, is a short drive from town but a warm, welcoming lodge that boasts fabulous cuisine and a wonderfully diverse range of homemade schnapps.
But the best thing about it is the toboggan ride home - a 15-minute downhill run that brings you back into the heart of the village. So go easy on the schnapps.
As long as there's not too much traffic, the transfer from Innsbruck is no more than two hours, which makes it an ideal destination not just for those looking to get away for a week's holiday but also for skiers wanting a 48-hour fix without the hassle of too much travel.
And without the hassle of having to compete with too much company too. Maria Alm may be small, quiet and relatively unknown but those are precisely the reasons to visit.
Quick, before it's too late.
