For many visitors to Grenoble, the self-styled Capital of the Alps is just the start point of a ski trip rather than a destination in its own right. But with more than 2,000 years of history to discover and three new airline routes from the UK this winter, that could all be about to change.
In fact, if you’ve never felt any desire to hit the slopes, Grenoble should still be on your radar. Small and easily navigable on foot, the city mixes Haussmann-style boulevards which look almost Parisian with medieval buildings in the narrower streets of the old town and even the occasional crumbling Roman wall.
Surrounded by mountains on all sides, as you look down almost any street you’ll be treated to a view of snow-topped peaks.
Wandering the old town, there’s everyday French life to discover among the history — the daily market at Place aux Herbes runs every morning (except Mondays) then enjoy lunch at Café de la Table Ronde.
Believed to be the second-oldest café in the city, it’s an old haunt of Stendhal, who was born in Grenoble, where he is thought to have met other writers such as Rousseau and Laclos.
For literature lovers, the Musée Stendhal celebrates the life and work of the famous French author. Rather than being a traditional museum, it is a collection of places around the city which are linked to Stendhal.
These include the apartment where he lived as a small child, depicted in his book Vie de Henry Brulard, as well as his grandfather’s apartment where he spent much of his time following the death of his mother.
It also takes in the Stendhal collection at the town’s library which includes 40,000 pages of original manuscripts.
The tourist office runs both individual and group tours to these places and other highlights of the city linked to the author, from his favourite café to the 13th-century L’église Saint-Hugues where he was baptised and L’ancien Palais du Parlement where Antoine Berthet, whose story inspired Stendhal’s novel Le Rouge et Le Noir, was imprisoned.
Beyond Grenoble’s famous son, there are many museums to suit all tastes, from La Casemate which is devoted to science and technology, including interactive exhibits and workshops for children, to the Musée de l’Ancien Évêché in the old town.
Housed in the former bishop’s palace, this museum covers the history of the city and the wider Isère region as well as hosting temporary exhibitions.
One of Grenoble’s main attractions is perched high on a hill overlooking the city: the 19th Century Bastille Fort is reached by retro-styled cable cars. The original, installed in 1934, was the world’s third urban cable car (after Rio de Janeiro and Cape Town).
If you’re feeling energetic, you can hike up instead, or enjoy one of the marked walking routes from the top. It’s also home to a high ropes course, via ferrata, arts centre and a museum, plus two restaurants: you could easily spend an entire day in this area alone.
But one of Grenoble’s big pleasures is ambling slowly through the city, people watching and trying some of the local food. The streets and squares are lined with cafés for coffee in the open air as well as pastries, sweets and even savoury dishes featuring the Grenoble walnut which grows nearby.
Other local specialities include the delicate disc-shaped Saint Marcellin cheese which dates back to the 15th century and ravioles du Royans — thinner and finer than traditional ravioli, these are usually filled with cheese and herbs.
I tried both at Le Casse-Croûte à Dédé, an informal spot that’s ideal for a well-priced lunch.
For inspired local food, it’s difficult to beat Le Fantin Letour, run by award-winning chef Stéphane Froidevaux, whose previous restaurant in Provence was given a Michelin star.
Now settled in Grenoble, he creates dishes inspired by the mountains. In summer he spends his free time foraging for wildflowers to include in his dishes, while in winter, his seasonal ingredients include truffles and spices combined with root vegetables.
Set in a beautiful 19th century house, or hôtel particulier, the location is idyllic, with chickens, rabbits and beehives in the garden shaded by a 200-year-old linden tree.
The brasserie-style lunchtime menu changes every day, using products from the Marché de L’Estacade and herbs from the garden, costing around £22 for two courses.
The evening is a far more gastronomic affair with menus ranging from around £46, including an entirely vegetarian option plus a vegan version available on demand.
I enjoyed pumpkin velouté with a Lapsang Souchong foam and nuts, cod with truffle sauce and a beautifully presented dessert of various fresh fruits with ginger. It’s also well worth asking to visit the impressive cellar while you are there for a taste of the local Chartreuse.
Some of Grenoble’s hotels are housed in the city’s historic buildings too — Le Grand Hotel Grenoble with its central location and modern interiors is one of the best. I checked in to the eco-minded OKKO hotel, around a 10 minute walk from the centre.
Rooms are well-thought out and comfortable, with hip, crumpled linen bed sheets, although they are small so perhaps better suited to solo travellers than couples.
There’s an evening apero with cheese and other snacks, plus a beer or glass of wine included, as well as free soft drinks and snacks around the clock in the large bar/lounge area.
With low-cost flights and plenty of temptations for an unusual city break, rushing through Grenoble to the ski slopes would be to miss out.
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