TV chef Matt Tebbutt is holding court in his restaurant, explaining how interest from the local Jewish community has inspired him to consult Florence Greenberg's legendary Jewish Cookbook for inspiration on kosher-style dishes for his menu. Eight floors up, a rooftop bar is doing a roaring trade in cocktails, with the hardier drinkers venturing onto the open-air terrace for a nocturnal view of the sights, albeit fairly limited, of the coastal town. Interiors and furnishings throughout the property bear the distinctive stamp of Ray Kelvin, the publicity-shy Jewish founder and driving force of the Ted Baker fashion brand. This is definitely not your standard regional Hilton.
The difference had been immediately apparent on arrival at the hotel, which opened in mid-December. Under the reception desk is an eye-catching showcase of Poole Pottery.
On a nearby wall is a large illuminated panel featuring the latest public transport information. Mind you, given that the hotel is sited in what locals say is the nicest part of town, is on the doorstep of the gardens and no more than a five-minute stroll to the seafront, you are unlikely to need it.
My room was on one of the higher floors and although the external view was unexceptional, the decor more than compensated. They've gone for a windmill motif, reflected in modern style on the walls, cushions, bed covers and headboard - and more nostalgically on the red and white toy windmills perched above a table cleverly incorporating a map of Bournemouth and beyond.
A bygone era is also recalled by an archive train poster for the Bournemouth Belle and a large mono image of a family enjoying a day at the beach. The latter is in the bathroom, where if you look closely, you'll spot further windmills among the patterned tiles.
Wandering around the premises, design flourishes abound. Different fonts for room numberplates; variously shaped mirrors along corridors; appealing artworks of vintage tele-phones in one area; typewriters in another. If this sounds somewhat OTT, it actually rarely jars. Ditto for the profusion of cutlery-related art in Matt Tebbutt's Schpoons & Forx (Why not Spoons & Forks? No one could offer a convincing explanation.)
Obvious thought has gone into making it more than a hotel restaurant. There's an absence of Hilton branding and beyond the food - good choice of fish - the standout feature is an open kitchen, allowing you to watch the chefs in action, although from a safe enough distance to miss the expletives. Schpoons & Forx is also the breakfast venue for B&B clients and, as I discovered, offers a more appetising take on the traditional menu.
