A powerful odour greets us as we clamber from our Zodiac dinghy onto Española Island in the Galapagos. “Welcome to the aroma of evolution,” says Gianncarlo, our expedition guide.
It is an extraordinary assault on the senses; red and green marine iguanas so plentiful we have to pick our way over them to reach the trail, a large colony of sealions within touching distance.
Bright orange Sally Lightfoot crabs scamper over rocks while mockingbirds teasingly flirt overhead. “They’ve had no major predators to worry about, so they simply see us as another species dropping in,” explains Gianncarlo. “They’re probably as curious about us as we are about them.”
This is a wildlife encounter far exceeding my expectations. The Galapagos is a unique archipelago. A group of 19 islands that, throughout their existence, has never been joined to any mainland — creating an ecosystem nurturing species not found anywhere else on earth.
Each island is unique, and each species has had to adapt in order to survive. One island might be covered in dense mangrove such as Isabela, another with cactus as with Plaza Sur, or the astonishing lava fields of Sullivan Bay on Santiago, solidified into spectacular natural artforms.
Exploring them is, quite simply, extraordinary.
Sitting some 600 miles off Ecuador’s coast, the Galapagos Islands are thankfully protected after the Ecuadorian government declared the region a national park and marine reserve, with strict regulations on traffic to keep the islands pristine. 97% of the archipelago is uninhabited (only Baltra, Floreana, Isabela, San Cristobal and Santa Cruz are populated), and no more than 100 people can be on an uninhabited island at one time.
It’s a regulation welcomed by the 96 guests aboard Silversea’s intimate Silver Galapagos, because it means we’ll be entirely alone as we explore each island along our seven-day expedition cruise, combining the extraordinary wildlife with luxury service.
Seasoned cruisers will notice a few changes to standard cruising procedure; the crew is entirely Ecuadorian by law, and all produce onboard is strictly controlled to protect the endemic wildlife and flora.
Even our luggage gets examined by the Galapagos authorities in Quito before our flight over, to ensure nothing is brought in that could harm the fragile eco system that flourishes here.
Ultimately, the rewards of this red tape are reaped as our twice-daily expeditions offer up an unforgettable cast of characters to savour.
Giant tortoises, red and blue-footed boobies, green sea turtles, magnificent frigate birds, pelicans, Galapagos hawks, Darwin finches, sea-lions and marine iguanas. All within touching distance, going about their daily life as if you weren’t there.
I have my own Attenborough moment lying by myself on the beach at Rabida Island. Just in front of me are sealions — two parents and their pup — who decide to hang out with me.
Much as I am loving their company I wade out for a snorkel and before I know it, I’m joined by the playful pup who clearly sees me as his new BFF. What a joyful moment. A memory to treasure.
Life on board swiftly takes on a routine of pampered pioneering. My Explorer Suite on deck three features a generous living space with a couch and desk, plus a very comfortable queen bed.
A sizeable flat screen TV adorns one wall with a large ocean view window on the other. Free Wi-Fi is standard as are comfy robes, slippers and beach towels.
In the corner I find a pleasant surprise; a complimentary stainless-steel water bottle and water-resistant backpack for our daily expeditions. My butler Jamal (every cabin has a butler) takes careful note of my in-room food and drink preferences when I arrive and makes sure both are fully stocked every day.
Each evening we get a destination briefing on the onshore activities for the next day. Hand-held videos of the upcoming terrain are perfect for anyone feeling remotely uneasy about walking and all excursions have choices to suit most physical needs.
Every morning is an early start (Ecuador’s daylight begins and ends around six) and following a hearty breakfast, we gather in small groups of ten into a Zodiac accompanied by our wildlife expert.
We’re back in time for lunch before embarking on our afternoon guided adventures. We return on board in time for tea, rest and relaxation, a lecture or a nap (perhaps both), before changing for sundowner drinks, canapes and dinner.
The Silver Galapagos has two places to eat, both of which offer fish and vegetarian alternatives, casual dress and open seating.
The outstanding main restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, or there’s the al fresco grill up on deck five. Lunch is like a relaxed diner with fresh fish, salads and some daily specials but after dark this becomes the Hot Rocks Grill where you barbecue your food on tabletop volcanic hot stones.
Hikes and excursions are obviously at the heart of this Galapagos experience, but there are snorkelling and kayaking options too.
I was fitted out with a wet suit, snorkel, mask and flippers on my first day which I kept for the duration of the cruise. Both beach and deep-water snorkelling is available depending on your level of experience and the kayaking and snorkelling is always led by a guide.
Our last night recap briefing is emotional. A time for farewells to the whole crew and team who by now are practically family. They all know our names and have shared those unforgettable moments. I’m not ashamed to say there is a tear in my eye.
The memories come flooding back once more as cruise photographer Jorge Prigann premieres his video of our week together, ending with one final surprise; we have the video and 300 images waiting for us on two free DVDs in our suites. What a finale.
Bucket list wildlife holidays
Our world is home to some astonishing creatures and while the Galapagos Islands must be on the bucket list of any nature lover, there are plenty more fabulous wildlife holidays to tempt.
The great migration
Any safari experience is memorable, whether you’re ticking off the Big Five, spotting the Little Five (some of Africa’s rarest small creatures) or simply revelling in the chance to see the animals in their natural habitat.
One of the most spectacular has to be the Great Migration as around 1.5 million wildebeest, along with zebras and gazelles, move between Tanzania and Kenya in the search for food and water, attempting to avoid predators along the way.
The circular migration visits the Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Loliondo Game Controlled Area, and Grumeti Reserve in Tanzania as well as the Maasai Mara Game Reserve in Kenya. While you can see them in different locations year-round, the best months are July to October, and December to March.
The bear necessities
If you’re hunting for bears, you can venture well off the beaten track to spy polar bears in the Arctic or find rare sun bears in Asia — but this is one animal that can also be seen in Europe.
Head to Finland or to Eastern Europe, including Slovakia, Bulgaria and Romania, for a chance to watch brown bears. Tour operators such as Explore and Naturetrek both run small guided breaks to see European brown bears, such as on a long weekend escape to Finland.
For bears galore, it’s hard to beat Canada though, where you can see black, brown, grizzly, spirit and polar bears — the area around Vancouver Island and the Great Bear Rainforest on the west coast are among the best, or head to Churchill on the east coast for polar bears.
Watching whales
Migration routes through the oceans mean there’s a good chance to see whales in Europe during most months of the year, as well as further-flung locations.
Both the Canary Islands and the Azores are ideal for whale-watching and dolphin spotting — the waters around the Canary Islands alone are home to 26 different species of cetaceans and you can have a chance to see them year-round.
The islands also have strict laws to ensure the marine life isn’t stressed or hassled by the boat tours.
To see blue whales, one of the most popular locations is Sri Lanka — head to Mirissa on the east coast and Galle in the south between February and mid March for the best sightings, as well as looking for leopards at Yala National Park and elephants at Udawalawe National Park all in one trip.
Great apes
Our closest cousins on Earth are among some of the world’s most endangered creatures: now increasingly protected, a chance to see them in the wild is unmissable.
In Africa, gorilla trekking holidays to Rwanda and Uganda take you deep into the forest, in strictly controlled group sizes, often as well as trips to see the country’s chimpanzees.
Rainbow Tours has small group tours to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda, which holds half of the world’s remaining 600 or so mountain gorillas, as well as the Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda where the rest are protected.
Or in Borneo, you could see orangutans in the wild, as well as in rehabilitation centres and sanctuaries. Kinabatangan Wildlife Reserve in Sabah is one of the best places to spot them, although there are various options depending how far off the beaten track you’re happy to go.
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