In 1910, Portugal announced itself a republic from the town hall balcony of Praça do Munícipio. Just over 100 years later, set in a beautifully restored 18th- century building that's tucked into a corner of the same square, the AlmaLusa Baixa/Chiado Hotel is a breath of fresh air amid many of Lisbon's more aristocratic hotels.
The newly-opened brainchild of experienced hotelier Miguel Simoes de Almeida, this boutique property of just 28 rooms offers informal contemporary luxury for sure, yet still manages to harness the character and history of a wonderful old building which once housed a bank, a prosperous family, a tile factory and a wine merchant.
From here it's just a few metres to the Tagus River in one direction and the upscale designer shopping of Chiado in the other. Lisbon is like that. Its neighbourhoods and hills harbour so many different sights and sounds, you really need to explore it on foot to peek under the city's tourist veneer.
My deluxe suite is a very long room in tasteful brown pastels, dominated by a king-sized bed with crisp cotton sheets, huge pillows and a luxurious shag pile carpet. There's a handy kitchenette with a microwave, dishwasher and fridge and a great view four floors up out over the square.
As dusk falls, the hotel's Delfina brasserie-style restaurant is doing brisk business. Restaurant manager Diogo Siqueira is determined to give me something typically regional. "You won't believe the Bacalhau a bras, it is to die for," he tells me. Bacalhau a bras is a Lisbon speciality of scrambled eggs, grated cod, onion and straw fries, and when he comes over to check, armed with a chilled glass of Douro white for me, all is well.
Rates: Rooms from €110 (£92.50) per room per night including breakfast. www.almalusahotels.com
Getting to Lisbon: TAP Portugal flies from London Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester to Lisbon up to 9 times a day, prices start at £124 return including all taxes and surcharges. For further information, visit www.flytap.com or call 0345 601 0932.
AlmaLusa Baixa/Chiado is the first of a growing group of AlmaLusa boutique hotels with another due to open in 2017. With a fantastic location, experienced team who clearly know their trade, informal but effective service and plenty of urban luxury as the finishing touch, it's perfect for a long Lisbon weekend break.
