You’ll always find someone who says they know the secret for the absolute best version of this Ashkenazi classic, and that nothing tastes like theirs/their bubba’s/auntie Rivka’s. I have no need to brag as I know I have the secret — taking your time. Caramelising the onions low and slow gives the dish its unique texture and flavour. You can use a flavourless vegetable oil, but for a really great flavour, use kosher chicken fat (shmaltz). Finally, hand chop your livers. But most important, nice and slow: you’ll really taste the difference.


Method:

• Warm the oil over a very low heat in a large pan and fry the onions in with some salt until soft and caramelised, stirring continuously. The onions should turn a very light colour — do not let them brown or they’ll be bitter. This should take you 10-15 minutes.

• Add the chicken livers and chicken fat (or extra oil) and cook for another 10 minutes or so until cooked through.

• Reserving the liquid from the pan, drain it off, cool and then refrigerate the chicken livers and fat in one dish and the drained liquid in another. 

• Peel and grate the eggs.

• Chop the chicken liver and onion mixture finely with a knife until it’s the right consistency for you then add the grated egg and enough of the cooking liquid/fat to create the texture you want.

• Season generously with salt and pepper to taste. We served ours with toast and a schmear of mustard — but eat it however you like.

Shiri is co-owner and chef at Epicurus Camden and soon-to-open Black Cow Shoreditch 
Instagram: epicurus camden 

First published in the JC July 28 2023