Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ll be all over tahina, sumac and za’atar. The Middle Eastern condiments are now storecupboard staples for many of us, thanks in no small part to Israeli chefs like Ottolenghi and Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer (of Honey & Co) .
Less familiar may be amba sauce. Generally found sitting next to the tahini bottle in shawarma/falafel bars, the strongly savoury mango-based, orange relish is another Sabra staple. However, unlike tahina — as ubiquitous in Israel’s home kitchens as butter or oil here — amba is a little more divisive.
Israeli chef, Shiri Kraus explains why: “It’s one of those condiments you adore or hate. If you eat too much of it, the smell of fenugreek can almost ooze from your pores. It has caused marital disputes! My husband he loves it and I’m not keen on the smell.” The smell is said to be like maple syrup .
If you’re going to eat amba, there’s no avoiding fenugreek (which is also much used in Indian recipes) as it’s a key ingredient and what makes it distinctive. Like hummus, its origins are claimed by several countries claim it as their own. It’s said to have Indian roots and thought to have been brought to the Israeli culinary canon by Iraqi Jews. It’s popular in Israel, Saudi Arabia and Iraq.
“You’ll find it in any Israeli fast-food place either in a squirty bottle or a jar” says Kraus, who also tells me that most Israelis would buy theirs. Here, you can find it in kosher shops and in some Middle Eastern stores – but, as Kraus says, you never know what preservatives or artificial flavourings are in them so may also want to make your own.
Kraus tells me that amba is packed with goodness. “It contains vitamins C and E, is rich in calcium, magnesium, and fibre, and low in calories — less than 100 calories per 100 grams.” She also says fenugreek is said to be useful for increasing breast milk supply; can reduce blood sugar and cholesterol.
Amba shiri and amir
Home made amba is easy to make Photo: Inbal Bar-Oz
The sunny orange tone is not from the mangoes, which are generally unripe and green, but from turmeric — which also is packed with health-giving properties.
Whether you make your own or buy your amba, here are Kraus’s suggestions how to use with it:
1. Feeling French: mix with mayo to make amba aioli: Mix approximately 100g mayonnaise with 20g amba with a pinch of chilli flakes if you like a bit of heat and salt to taste. Stir until fully combined and use as a dip for chips, whitebait, chicken goujons and other deep-fried treats.
2. In a pickle: a spoonful mixed into pickling liquor brings an extra flavour layer.
3. Get dippy with it: stir a heaped teaspoon (or more to taste) into Greek yoghurt for a delicious way to pep up crudites
4. Middle Eastern max: stir together equal quantities of raw tahina and amba and drizzle them over roasted cauliflower. “People go bananas for this when I serve it for parties that I cater” says Kraus.
5. Veg out: roast aubergines, onions and tomatoes in a hot oven (200°C) until soft, caramelised and lightly charred. Remove the most blackened parts of the skins and roughly chop the flesh then mix with amba, chilli flakes and some roughly chopped parsley for a tasty vegan salad.
Find a simple recipe for amba here.
Find ideas of how to cook with amba on the JC's recipe pages. If you prefer to use ready-to-use amba, look out for Galil or Hanamal (both available at kosher stores) or Med Cuisine (info at: medcuisine.co.uk)
Shiri is chef and co-founder of The Black Cow, Camden.
