White knuckles and blue water

Think of Lake Garda and theme parks and roller coasters are probably not what spring to mind. But who knew the town of Peschiera on the edge of the beautiful lake is Europe's equivalent of Orlando?

Perhaps not quite on the same scale as the bustling corner of Florida, but it is home to Gardaland, Italy's largest theme park.

The Italian lakes had acquired something of a reputation in my mind. I pictured calm, quietness, serenity. I imagined newlyweds and elderly couples indulging in a week or two of romance. I envisaged still waters and beautiful sunsets; mountainous backdrops.

I'd never heard anything to suggest that this glorious region would make for a good holiday destination for little boys. Rest assured that there is enough to keep the average family amused for at least a week.

On arrival in the area, I thought we had taken a wrong turn. We got lost on spaghetti junctions; dual carriageways pointing tourists towards fast food joints, theme parks and even sex shops.

Getting there

Fly: British Airways offers up to seven flights per day to Milan's Linate Airport from London Heathrow. Fares from £116 return. They also fly to Milan's Malpensa Airport from £111 return, with up to four flights per day from Heathrow.

However, we did manage to find our way into the centre of Peschiera. This small town hugs the southern tip of Lake Garda, the biggest in Italy. You can drive into the old part, which is surrounded by an ancient wall, though you do so at your own peril as traffic is chaotic. We planned to walk the shoreline, take in the views, indulge in some people watching and a scoop or two of gelato along the way. The boys had other ideas.

The lake looked spectacular, not least because of the many boats sailing, gliding and zipping their way across it. Bouncing with excitement, they begged us to hire a speedboat.

"No licence necessary", read the signs at every stall offering boat hire on the waterfront. I wasn't sure whether to be pleased or anxious. As experience was deemed unnecessary, my husband decided the kids might as well have a go at driving too. And so, as my knuckles turned from white to whiter, the boys ripped through the peace with their waves and shrill voices. By the time we made it to Gardaland, we had three little adrenaline junkies on our hands.

Gardaland is part of Merlin's theme park empire, but there is little that resembles its British counterparts. The rides and characters have unique identities and overall there is no real language barrier. The main difference is the food.

At a British theme park you could spend a small fortune on over-priced junk food. Not so in Gardaland. Instead of limp hot dogs and soggy pizza, it offers an impressive array of world cuisine. Few restaurants offer children's menus, but who cares when there's pizza and pasta galore?

We shied away from the white knuckle rides and headed for the seemingly innocuous Magic House. The clue, however, was in the name. Thanks to a little magic, what looked like a gentle and entertaining pleasure ride turned out to be a heart-pumping adrenaline rush. Descending into the bowels of the tree, we were ushered into a cosy-looking fairytale house.

There are challenges galore, but we took the path less windy, steep and terrifying. Instead, we opted for water-based or gentle rides and several shows, including Ice Age 4D, which was produced for Gardaland's multi-lingual audience and a visit to the Sea Life aquarium.

A short drive away lay the walled city of Sirmione, a finger of land stretching into the lake. The main historical landmark are the Grottoes of Catullus, a striking example of a Roman private edifice in northern Italy.

The town's streets are narrow, winding and cobbled. While daring locals zip around in open-topped sports cars, laid-back tourists explore the fairy tale film set by foot.

Just as impressive is the magnificent Villa dei Cedri, on the eastern side of the lake. The beautifully restored villa operates as a hotel, but anybody can visit its parkland. The star attraction is the natural hot spring pool. There are hydromassage taps, sprays and fountains and a small cave which the kids loved.

Verona is a short drive from its southern tip. After a morning in the pool, we whisked the kids off to the Roman Amphitheatre for some living history. Boys being boys, they relished the opportunity to visit the spot where bloodthirsty gladiators would battle it out for victory.

We strolled over to see the famous balcony where Shakespeare's Juliet might have stood. The concept floated above their young minds, but they were nonetheless fascinated by the wall of padlocks and lumps of old chewing gum left behind by the legions of tourists before us.

There followed a dose of window shopping and an obligatory gelato stop, but by now their patience had worn thin. Forget the history, the culture, the high fashion. All my boys wanted to head back "home" to the lake, where many more adventures awaited them.