When Yoshie and I visited Rome after getting married, we scored a fortuitous invite to Shabbat dinner at Giovanni Terracina’s apartment. Giovanni runs the kosher catering company Le Bon Ton, and his home cooking did not disappoint. One small complication: I was a long time vegetarian, and the meal Giovanni served was a veritable feast of meat dishes, including stracotto di manzo (literally, “overcooked beef”)—an iconic Roman Jewish stew traditionally served for Shabbat and holidays. Scanning the glorious table in front of me, I took a deep breath, turned to Yoshie, and quietly said, “If the phrase ‘When in Rome’ ever applies, it’s tonight.” And what a meal it was. (That dinner does not mark the official moment I stopped identifying as a vegetarian, but I think it is fair to say it played a role!)

Stracotto is typically served as two courses. First, the ample sauce is spooned over rigatoni and enjoyed as a primi. The meat is then served as part of the main course. Not all stracotto recipes include wine, but the version Giovanni shared with me does. And since his wonderful stracotto was my first taste of the dish, it will always be my gold standard.

Method:

• Heat the oil in a large casserole pan (Dutch oven) over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add the beef and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes per batch; transfer the beef to a large plate as it is browned. Add a drizzle more oil if the pot begins to look dry. Set the beef aside.
• Add the onions, celery, and garlic to the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the wine, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil.
• Add the tomato puree and browned beef (along with any juices that have accumulated on the plate) to the casserole (Dutch oven) and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beef is very tender and the sauce is creamy and thick, 2½ to 3 hours.

Recipe adapted from Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen (Norton)