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Opinion

OK, so here’s my chicken soup secret

I’ve been teaching new friends to cook the Jewish way

April 1, 2025 16:22
4 min read

I woke up heiseric, as my dad would have termed it, ie wheezing and full of phlegm, in the knowledge that six men would shortly arrive at the house for a mentoring session on the perfect way to make chicken soup. They had “won” me, at some expense, in an auction, in 2019 for a Park Theatre fundraiser. Then Covid struck. For the last few years, we’ve been trying to fix a date. This was it.

Since that potential booking, I have become a regular battle axe in Coronation Street, moved house, done a one-person show in the West End and acquired a new partner, who, for heaven’s sake, makes his chicken soup with GIBLETS.

I had noticed the previous evening, at a dinner party, that I was talking in a very low and sultry voice, as though I was auditioning for the role of Tallulah Bankhead (google her, it’s worth it). It crossed my mind the guests might have found me a tad pretentious.

Anyway, here we were. The morning after. A pan of his (arguably superior) soup bubbling on the hob and all the ingredients for mine – proper boiling fowl, carrots, swede, turnip, celeriac, its cousin celery and onion. My mother used to add a dark liquid called Vesop – try finding that in Waitrose, Nigella – but I must substitute this with marigold powder and a dash of Lea & Perrins. The table is laid for a bagels and lox starter.