A reader was perturbed by Gastropub owners Geronimo Inns’ plan to bring in some different cuts of meat, called clod, sticket, knuckle and “Jewish fillet”.

Does the last term not have some doubtful origin, he asked? It, in fact, refers to the forequarter portion popular in the kosher trade because the rabbis do not permit true fillet.

And why can’t you get kosher fillet? Don’t get me started on that.