Become a Member
Israel

The smell etches into my memory

May 2, 2019 10:12

ByTom Tugend, BY Tom Tugend

3 min read

V Shortly before 10 at night the first men leave their sandbagged bunkers and amble up to the main tent. Informally, they fall into three lines of five men each. A lieutenant leisurely checks their equipment. Beside me, an Israeli soldier translates in whispers: “Bayonet? Two handgrenades? 100 rounds of rifle ammunition? Ken, ken, ken, b’seder [yes, yes, yes, ok].”

The sergeant hands out hard fruit candies from a tin can. Pushing two from one cheek to another, we move out by a narrow trail through the mountain-ringed circular valley across the Faluja-Hebron road, and past the last Israeli guard.

“Good luck, boys.” [Final remarks always sound artificial in books or movies, but in our mood of slightly heroic renunciation the words feel singularly appropriate]

We turn left, cutting through our minefield. It is a cool night with a half moon. Some 1,200 yards in front of us looms the trapezoid-shaped hill which marks the village of Iraq el Manshiya, protecting the western approaches to Faluja.