Insider knowledge invariably pays dividends, as Board of Deputies’ chief executive Gillian Merron and senior colleagues attested on Monday night at the Sheraton Grand in London’s Park Lane.
The Board staff and officers were among around 900 wine connoisseurs and enthusiasts at Kedem Europe’s annual Kosher Food and Wine Experience.
Fortified by a mountainous buffet including sushi, salt beef and multiple dessert options, guests jostled with varying degrees of patience to sample some of the best and newest from the world of kosher wine and spirits.
Ms Merron and her group — on a self-funded night out, she stressed — had called on the sommelier expertise of staffer Anthony Silkoff, who had supplied a lengthy list of recommendations they were assiduously working their way through.
“It’s an amazing showcase,” she observed. “We are pleased to be enjoying this with everyone.”
Unsurprisingly, a good many Israeli wineries were exhibiting, among them Yatir, whose vineyards are sited at an altitude of up to 900 metres above sea level across the Yatir Forest, in the northern Negev.
Yatir’s general manager, Yaacov Ben Dor, reported growing UK interest in the brand from “good restaurants and stores”, with sales here now accounting for some five per cent of trade.
“We produce what we believe in,” he said, extolling the virtues of the Yatir Creek 2016, a dry red incorporating Syrah, Tannat and Malbec. “It’s about quality as much as about being kosher.”
He was pleased, if not surprised, when a woman interrupted his conversation with the JC to announce: “I saw your wine in Belgium.”
Dan Wasserlauf had jetted in from New York to promote the wares of Nadiv, a Judean Hills winery, whose bottles sell from £25-£50.
“It’s my first time here and I was hesitant about whether it was worth it,” he confided. “But the people are pleased with the wine.”
Emboldened by the reception, he was planning to visit stores the following day to spread the word.
Kedem Europe general manager Benjamin Gestetner said the night had been “wonderful from every perspective. We had some of the best wines we’ve ever shown from Israel, France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and the US.
“The unlimited tasting was a good opportunity for attendees to identify the styles of wines they enjoy and make new discoveries. There were fabulous comments, too, on the food created by Arieh Wagner’s talented team.”
His view was that Jewish consumers were now “more appreciative of quality kosher wines of every origin. Our tastes in wine are becoming more modern and sophisticated.
“We are also seeing a greater willingness to increase the spend per bottle, as the community recognises that there is a distinctive difference in quality and complexity between low and higher priced wines.”
Although Jewish customers were driving the growth in the kosher market, Mr Gestetner reported that Israeli wines were popular in “Eastern Mediterranean-style restaurants, as well as non-kosher restaurants serving Israeli specialities, where the wines work so well with the flavours of the dishes.
“We are heavily promoting Israeli wines to the top hotels and restaurants, educating sommeliers to re-categorise their wine lists to include a wider range from the Eastern Med.
“Independent wine retailers are particularly interested in the Bordeaux-style Israeli wines coming from the top wineries.”
KFWE has become something of a communal get-together with frum mixing with secular and guests spanning the age spectrum of alcoholic legality.
Among the younger visitors was North Londoner Shane Melnick, who had been persuaded to attend by his father. Not generally a wine fan, the tastings had afforded him a much greater understanding and appreciation.
“Things might change after tonight,” he predicted.
For others keen to expand their knowledge, there were also wine and whisky master-classes. The latter involved Iain Forteath from Tomintoul, producer of Speyside single malts, whose kosher certification was “very useful for Israel and America”.
His recommendation to the JC was its 16-year-old bourbon-casked offering, “crème brulée in a glass”.
Some lucky punters got to sample Tomintoul’s Five Decades, celebrating the distillery’s 50th anniversary and retailing at around £250. “You have to push the boat out,” he reasoned.