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Understatement is the new black

February 24, 2011 12:41

ByJan Shure, Jan Shure

3 min read

It may have been a directive from her new backers to get the flashbulbs popping, or it may have been a natural desire to make those same backers sit up and take notice, but whatever impelled the prodigiously talented Nicole Farhi to produce for her Spring/Summer show last September lots of unwearable wisps of nothing held together with strings of delicate sequins has, thankfully, deserted her.

For her Autumn/Winter 2011 catwalk show on Sunday, the third day of London Fashion Week, and one of more than 150 shows on a hectic schedule, Farhi was emphatically back on form.

In a sleek, slick show which featured a tiny palette of colours comprising a gorgeously flattering French navy, cream, black, grey, white and rare jolts of colour via red or burgundy, she managed to strike the perfect balance between grown-up elegance and a pared-down, ozone-fresh aesthetic which will give her collection appeal across a wide age spectrum.

Flawless sculptural lines and a sporty, New York vibe, made even the simplest pieces desirable. High-waisted crepe trousers, some narrow, some wide-leg, were teamed with cropped, wide lapel jackets or with close-fitting, long-sleeve tops, plain or lavished with sequins. High-waisted, A-line skirts in flannel, pony skin or, for evenings, sequins, were teamed with simple sleevless tops tucked in or belted, or with sheer black shirts or close-fitting long-sleeve tops.