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TV review: Jerusalem on a Plate

In the Holy City, they are what they eat

December 22, 2011 11:38
Yotam Ottolenghi in Jerusalem, a city with strong food traditions

By

Simon Round,

Simon Round

1 min read

This may have been a food programme but you do not have to be long in Jerusalem before you taste the flavour of politics.

Falafel is, of course, the national dish of Israel - unless you happen to be a Palestinian vendor of the ubiquitous chickpea balls who feels he has a greater claim to the dish than Israeli upstarts.

Similarly, our guide to the edible delights of Jerusalem, that gentlest and most intellectual of chefs, Yotam Ottolenghi, was soon told by a Palestinian hummus seller that what the Israelis thought of as hummus was not really hummus at all. Disputes aside, what came across in this engaging documentary was how the food reflected the city.

It was, in turns, vibrant, diverse, rooted in history but ever-changing. Ottolenghi, a native Jerusalemite who left 20 years ago to revolutionise London's cafe culture, found that, for the Palestinians, tradition was all. Bakers were proud of the fact that their pastries were identical to those of their grandparents - and adhering to an ancient recipe had an honour attached to it.