Turkey: Sleek, slow and a charter for fun

Every meal started with a selection of Turkish salads and dips, enough to fill you up, if you so desire. It's a healthy way of eating and there's always fish to follow.

Getting there

Charters: Carpe Diem 1 offers private charters sailing out of Bodrum, Marmaris and Gocek along the Turkish coast or Rhodes and Kos. It operates April – November with lead in prices from £8,000 inclusive for seven nights, but shorter breaks are possible. Similar 5 star smaller and larger boats are available. Inclusive rates for up to nine guests cover meals and soft drinks, airport transfers, speedboat and watersports equipment, chef and crew services (flights, speedboat fuel and alcohol are not included. A wine list is offered, or stocked to guests' own preference) www.dreamcharters.co.uk
Fly: Monarch Airlines flies to Dalaman from London Gatwick, Luton, Birmingham, Leeds Bradford and Manchester.
More info: www.gototurkey.co.uk

Next day we anchored in Hamam Bay, close to Fethiye, where the ruins emerging from the sea are reputed to be the site of Cleopatra's Turkish bath.

In fact, the Egyptian queen is associated with many places on this coast, but it still makes a delightful spot for snorkelling. The turquoise sea is crystal clear, fish dart between the ancient stones, and there's even the promise of turtle sighting.

The afternoon brought a light breeze so Captain Hakan made the most of it and sailed west towards Dalyan. Around five knots was the most the boat could manage in those conditions, but it was enormously peaceful without the sound of the engines. Morning brought us to the ancient sea port of Kaunos, dating back to the 10th century. It's been occupied by the Persians, Greeks and Romans and was finally abandoned in the 15th century because of malaria.

Over the years, the harbour silted up and was colonised by reeds, an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes. We boarded a boat to visit the 5,000-seater Roman amphitheatre and the remains of a massive bath complex. High above the Dalyan River were rock tombs with facades carved into the mountain to resemble Hellenistic temples, complete with Ionian pillars. This is a fertile valley, with large groves of oranges, lemons, walnuts, pomegranates and hazelnuts while Grey Mullet and Sea Bream are plentiful in the river.

Dalyan is a pleasant fishing village but the big tourist attractions are the mud baths, fed by sulphurous volcanic springs. The minerals are meant to be good for your skin so it's necessary to cover yourself all over and stand in the sun until it dries. Only then are you permitted to be hosed down and soak in the warm waters.

We wound our way back to the sea through a labyrinth of reeds to emerge at the rear of Iztuzu Beach, better known as Turtle Beach. Loggerheads use their 5km spit of sand to lay their eggs and the area is closed after 8 pm so they can do so. A couple circled our boat before swimming off into the sunset. We aimed in the same direction and reboarded, a relief to be back on home territory, away from people.

That night, feasting on fish, by moonlight, I realised that the great attraction of chartering a yacht is that you're free to do as you please.

It's easy to while away the days swimming and snorkelling and there's no great need to cover huge distances or even go ashore and see the sights.

If you're feeling energetic, then you can take one of the canoes to paddle round the bays, or try your hand at water skiing.

I ended up bouncing over the waves in a rubber doughnut, pulled by speedboat, a delightfully silly activity, and I couldn't stop laughing.

This is as good as it gets.