A Coruña is a good place to start a trip, the gateway to the wild coves of the north and west coast, which are the glory of this beautiful region.
The town itself, dubbed City of Glass for its rows of balconies glassed in against the inevitable storms, has a stylish seafront leading to a charming old town via the impressive Plaza de Maria Pita and the remnants of an ancient Jewish quarter.
Plaza de Maria Pita, A Coruna (Photo: Anthea Gerrie)
Walking up the Rua Sinagoga, our guide for the evening, Adrian McManus, pointed out the building beneath which a mediaeval mikveh has recently been unearthed: it may one day be open to the public after renovations. An expert on Galicia’s wines as well as knowledgeable about the region’s pre-Inquisition Jewish history, McManus is as happy to lead tapas tours around his adopted city as he is to take visitors to the region’s finest vineyards.
At buzzy Casa Surrey he introduced us to stand-out anchovy fillets served with soft local cheese, and while Charlatan, owned by his friend Ruben, is not on the tour, it’s worth visiting for a modern fine-dining experience, with a Michelin-quality chef at the helm in the inventive kitchen.
Breakfast at our hotel, the NH Collection A Coruña Finisterre, featured another gourmet introduction to the region’s excellent cheeses, as well as tiny smoked- salmon sandwiches and eggs cooked to order, not to mention the freshly squeezed orange juice, de rigueur at all self-respecting hotels in Galicia.
The hotel is not only the city’s best but has perhaps the best location, just steps away from the old town, with a picturesque seafront walk also in strolling distance. It was our base too for trips to the wild northern estuaries known as the Rias Altas and the even wilder west coast at Fisterra, better known as the Finisterre of shipping forecast fame.
By the time we reached the pretty villages of Cedeira in the north and Camariñas to the west, we’d worked up an appetite for the fresh fish served at each, where a string of waterfront seafood restaurants offer everything from hake to cod and tuna belly straight off the day-boats.
Camarinas waterfront (Photo: Anthea Gerrie)
Fish and chips fans should order alla romana to get their choice delicately battered and served with incredibly finely sliced fries, only a sliver away from becoming potato chips, which we devoured on the spot.
Country roads with their views of river valleys, ravines and remote farms make the drive to the north coast particularly enjoyable; without your own wheels it’s not really possible to get the best out of the region. The only thing stopping Galicia from being all but perfect for a road trip is the erratic signage within cities to their well-hidden old quarters, although it shouldn’t deter you from hiring a car.
Speedier if less picturesque, the route west is now served mainly by motorway, like the road south to Santiago, a city as laid-back and cosmopolitan as A Coruña is reserved, grand and austere.
Famous as an ancient site of pilgrimage, thanks to the belief that the apostle James was ferried here from Jerusalem and buried nearby, Santiago now draws thousands of non-religious hikers from all over the world too.
They come to see the huge Gothic pile of a cathedral and wander the pedestrianised streets surrounding it, lined with bars, restaurants and souvenir shops.
Santiago de Compostela (Photo: Pixabay)
The buzz is best enjoyed with the option of a retreat far from the madding crowd in a leafy spot like the beautiful garden of the Hotel Costa Vella on the edge of the old town. A delightful and affordable place to stay, it serves breakfast, drinks, coffee and snacks until late into the evening, and the family who own it are a mine of advice on where to eat and what to do.
They pointed us towards Dezaseis restaurant, a local institution not to be missed and a far cry from the area’s tourist joints. As a bonus, it’s close to the food market — another local institution, and a great place to stock up on San Simon and other local cheeses, honey brought by country bubbes straight from the hive, and freshly harvested produce from surrounding farms.
There’s more Jewish history to be found if you head south from Santiago to the lovely town of Ribadavia, which until recently fielded a bakery selling pastries made to ancient Sephardic recipes.
While that’s sadly closed, the picturesque town is still worth a look, and has an intermittently open information centre handing out information on the Jewish heritage trail, including the site of a synagogue on the charming Plaza de la Magdalena, whose congregants were mainly vineyard owners.
Locals are proud of the area’s Jewish history and some have affixed Magen Davids to their homes in tribute to the long-departed community.
Nearby sits the much larger university city of Pontevedra, its old town an attractive web of handsome medieval streets, punctuated by broad plazas lined with cafes and elegant shops.
Pontevedra is also the gateway to the vineyards of the famous Rias Baixas, where you can stay among the vines at Quinta de San Amaro, a wonderful country retreat with an excellent dining room.
It’s easy to arrange a winery visit, and we thoroughly enjoyed ours to nearby Adega Eidos, home of several fine Albarinos, with the option of tastings on a terrace overlooking the vineyards.
If time permits, don’t miss the lively port of Vigo, which is the jumping-off point for one of the area’s loveliest attractions — the Cies Islands, part of a national park, and which can only be visited in the summer months.
With a strangely Caribbean air about them, they feel quite different from the mainland, whose charm is the majesty of the scenery, the ruggedness of the rocks punctuating the green and, quite frankly, the unpredictable rain.
It comes down in torrents when it does fall, but rarely lasts long and adds a touch of climatic drama that’s as unique to this part of Spain as it is fitting for such an epic adventure.
Getting There
Flights from Gatwick to A Coruña and Santiago cost from around £61 return with Vueling.
Doubles at NH Collection A Coruña Finisterre cost from around £98 B*B.
Rooms at Hotel Costa Vella cost from around £75 B&B.
Rooms at Quinta de San Amaro cost from around £98 B&B.
For more details of tours with Adrian McManus, visit northwestiberiawinetours.com
and for more information on the region see turismo.gal
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