The Jews of the Caribbean

As beautiful as it is unexpected, the coral-coloured stone shul, nestled on the aptly-titled Synagogue Lane in Bridgetown, is awe-inspiring, a Caribbean treasure that has survived everything against the odds, from a hurricane in 1831 to a planned demolition by the Barbados Government.

Getting there

British Airways Holidays has seven nights at The House by Elegant Hotels from £1,989 per person B&B based on two adults sharing, including return flights from London Gatwick. Book by December 1.
A similar stay at the Colony Club by Elegant Hotels costs from £1,059 per person based on two adults and two children under 12 for departures in June 2017. Book by September 30.
To contact Celso Brewster, email nidhe@caribsurf.com

It is a testament to the strength of the island's tiny Jewish community ­- including influential businessman Sir Paul Altman - that the synagogue is still going strong.

Though services do not run throughout the year, and mainly take place during busy tourist seasons, there is, perhaps unbelievably, another synagogue too, Shaare Tzedek. Two Jews, three synagogues, as the old joke goes.

I am shown around by a charming Bajan gentleman, Celso Brewster. Manager of the synagogue, he has worked with the Jewish community for a number of years, and as we walk around examining everything from the bimah to the plaques on the wall, regales me with stories of the variety of tourists who come to see the shul, each with their own fascinating tales.

Brewster tells me of long-lost cousins from opposite ends of the earth, who have met for the first time during brief day stops on cruise ships and even briefer tours of the synagogue; he tells me of centenarians who have made the trip to Barbados alone to see the shul for themselves in one last long-haul journey; he tells me of families who have wept in the graveyard together for old ancestors, staying for hours and holding each other.

The synagogue is not alone: it sits alongside a mikveh, a museum - the Nidhe Israel Museum - and a cemetery. There are even plans to open a Jewish community centre and kosher cafe next door, though when this will be a reality is yet to be seen.

It is seeing the mikveh that is perhaps the most fascinating element of my trip, because less than 10 years ago, it was buried and unknown under a car park. In 2008, students from the University of the West Indies began removing the tarmac and excavating what was thought to be the foundations of the rabbi's house. They found artefacts, ceramic shards, and eventually, a step.

The excavators originally thought this step would lead to a cellar, but that theory was soon discarded. As excitement grew, the digging continued and more was discovered: the sandy soil beneath was water-logged.

As the last bits of debris were cleared, an unexpected discovery had been made that this was the original mikveh of the synagogue, with clear water from the long-concealed spring gushing in and astonishing the excavators, who had hardly expected to dig up this important piece of history.

Today, the mikveh is not in use but, as Brewster tells me, its healing powers are well known in Barbados, with a number of ill people asking him for bottles of the spring water, believing it to have curative powers. As far as the archaeological structure of the mikveh goes, it is the oldest mikveh in the Americas, according to Nidhe Israel, estimated to have been constructed between 1650 and 1654 by the Sephardim moving to Barbados from Recife, Brazil and Amsterdam.

It is quite amazing to be standing above such a recent discovery, the spring water as calm as if it had never been covered over, witnessing the enduring power of a mikveh dug up by unsuspecting students centuries after it was built.

There's just enough time for a quick walk around the museum too, which tells the story of how the Jews came to be in Barbados, fleeing to the Caribbean island in the 17th century from former Dutch Brazil after being driven away by the Portuguese Inquisition. With them they brought expertise not only in windmill technology, but in growing sugar cane.

The museum tells the story of the Jewish contribution to the history of Barbados, with artefacts on display including Torah scrolls and important archaeological pieces retrieved from the rabbi's house.

After my fascinating trip, I must say goodbye to Brewster, promising to return with all my family, who would no doubt be fascinated by the intriguing synagogue and its surroundings. I regretfully step into a taxi, pulling away from Synagogue Lane and Brewster's bewitching tales about the synagogue and its medley of visitors from around the world.

Fortunately, The House is just one of six luxury properties by Elegant Hotels on the island, along with the family-friendly Colony Club, where you could go with all your cousins, uncles, aunts and grandparents and still have space to escape with your thoughts when it all gets a bit much. Perks include thoughtful touches like sunscreen by the pool, free ice lollies and cold towels brought by staff, plus all-inclusive water sports.

So as my plane rises higher into the air, and the idyllic Bajan scene gets smaller beneath me, I'm already planning my next trip with my family in tow: not just to laze on a double sun lounger with a rum punch but to return once more to Nidhe Israel and listen to more of Brewster's captivating synagogue stories.