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Slow down in Sri Lanka

Avoid the typical tourist route to taste life in this beautiful Asian nation

December 18, 2022 13:00
Ulagall Kayaking 1
6 min read

Paddling past giant water lilies in my kayak, kingfishers flitted by in brief flashes of iridescent blue, while purple swamp hens ventured through the lotus flowers, appearing to walk on the water itself. Dawn had just broken when we set off on an hour-long kayak tour of Wanamaduwa Tank, a man-made lake that’s thought to date back to the third century, and one of many in the area built to irrigate the local paddy fields.

With my knowledgeable guide Kalhara pointing out some more of the birdlife, including egrets and herons, it was a chance to discover a quieter side of Sri Lanka, away from the more well-known tourist hotspots.

The country’s ancient cities, vast temples and pilgrimage sites are both impressive and unmissable, but as well as exploring Sri Lanka’s culture and heritage along the main tourist trail, there is plenty to experience in a quieter way, closer to nature and a traditional way of life, not to mention some tempting accommodation options that are destinations in themselves.

My first stop was Uga Ulagalla, a beautifully restored 150-year-old mansion surrounded by paddy fields and lily ponds, and once home to local nobility. The 58-acre estate is now made up of 25 colonial-style villas, each with a private plunge pool. Celebrity guests there have included Jude Law.