Sicily: land of legend

Greek cities planted their colonies here, as did the Carthaginians and the Romans. Arabs followed, along with Norman adventurers and representatives of various French and Spanish royal families, sometimes in peaceful co-existence, sometimes locked in struggles for supremacy.

Even after Sicily became part of Italy, the island’s battles continued during the Second World War, before the Germans were driven out by the British and Americans. And traces of these many rulers remain, be it the Greek temples above the surface or the Roman mosaics to be found below.

Once there were 52 Jewish communities across Sicily, and a Jewish population of around 37,000, so there’s Jewish heritage to be found here too, including catacombs and a mikveh in Syracuse on the island’s eastern coast.

More than 500 years after Jews were expelled from the island in 1492, you can see the first shoots of Jewish rebirth in the capital, Palermo, as well.

Today, there are just 70 Jews on the island, all based in the city — some of whom are the descendants of those forced to convert to Catholicism, known as the Anusim. And there are efforts to open a synagogue here, the first in more than five centuries, occupying part of the church and monastery that were built upon the medieval synagogue.

Set to be home to the Sicilian Institute of Jewish Studies, the project has been receiving help from Shavei, an Israel-based organisation that reaches out to communities around the world who have lost their connection to their Jewish roots and identity. For the time being, though, plans and any opening have been put on hold thanks to Covid.

But venture to the south-west, and the historic town of Siculiana — not far from the famous Greek temples of Agrigento — and there’s more surprising heritage to unearth.

At sunset, we saw the medieval wedding celebrations of Costanza and Brancaleone Doria re-enacted, with performers, dancers and flag-wavers bringing the 1311 aristocratic nuptials to life once more.

Proceedings began formally in the main square before we followed the villagers as they marched along medieval streets and to little nooks that played a part in the story of this historic wedding.

It was wonderful to witness but I hadn’t expected to discover any Jewish links; that is, until I visited the church called the Sanctuary of the Crucifix. Inside is the Baptistery chapel and font, where scenes of the Old Testament from the 15th century are depicted on eight beautiful alabaster stone panels along the lower walls.

The stories are familiar — David killing Goliath, David playing the lyre, the transport of the Ark to Jerusalem, Joseph and his brothers, Jonah vomited by the whale, Job praying with his wife, Isaac’s sacrifice, and Isaac blessing Jacob — but the panels themselves are unique.

The stones originally come from a basin used for Jewish ablutions and also carry the relief of the royal Spanish emblems of Aragon and Castile, plus an inscription in Hebrew that reads: “In the year 1475 Samuel, son of Rabbi Yona. Rest in Heaven.” Scholars believe they may represent the single example of sacred medieval Jewish art in Sicily.

To explore this quiet corner of the island, there can be few better places to stay than the new five-star Adler Spa Resort Sicilia hotel set less than 20 minutes from Siculiana, designed with health and sustainability at its core — assuming you can tear yourself away.

The 90-room building itself is unobtrusive, blending into the landscape, while architectural design features include linear water channels that link the exterior to the interior, and flow through all the communal areas.

It is the latest project from the Sanoner family — owners of the Adler brand, who have run a small number of top Italian hotels for seven generations — and this part of unspoilt southern Sicily was chosen deliberately for its location.

The landscaped gardens of the hotel lead to a private beach and lido and ultimately the Torre Salsa nature reserve and the beach. It’s a 15-minute walk to the sea, or for a more relaxing alternative, there’s the option to ride in one of the electric golf buggies, with drivers on hand to shuttle guests there and back throughout the day.

The hotel’s three pools include a saltwater hydromassage pool, a Thalassa pool and long sports pool overlooking the sea.

I was initially a bit taken aback by the strength of the bubbles in the Thalassa pool during my dip, but it soon settled into being both invigorating and enjoyable, while an early yoga class next morning set the seal on this feeling of wellness.

Guided hikes and nature tours are on offer throughout the year to help you explore the 760-hectare nature reserve, home to a variety of flora and fauna, including the Caretta turtle, porcupines, birds of prey, tortoises, lizards, and elegant butterflies. Details of the various daily activities are available on screens around the resort, as well as via your mobile phone.

Health is an important part of the experience, with an extensive list of treatments available for sessions in the 13 seaview treatment rooms, ranging from feelgood to more medically orientated therapies promising everything from stress relief to boosting circulation and combating fluid retention. Oils, extracts and ingredients gathered on the property and from the nearby countryside are used in the treatments too.

Inevitably, locally-sourced ingredients appear on the menu in the restaurants as well, with a choice of lunch in the less formal Osteria or the Sea View restaurant, with its varied evening buffet.

Italians themselves regard the food of Sicily as among the best in the country, and fruit, vegetables and herbs grown in the hotel grounds make for an even healthier Mediterranean treat.

Gazing out to the enticing crystalline sea from the golden sands of the beach has to be the best therapy of all, though — and with a reality as tempting as this, who needs legends?

Getting There

Return fares from the UK to Palermo and Catania airports, both around two hours from Agrigento, start from around £40 with Ryanair from Stansted.

Rooms at the Adler Spa Resort Sicilia cost from around £230.

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