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Portugal's birthplace is the capital of culture

This year's European capital of culture has been named. We report from Guimaraes.

March 1, 2012 11:54
Largo-do-Toural: A picturesque square in the heart of the city

By

Barry Toberman,

Barry Toberman

2 min read

'Portugal was born in Guimaraes," explains our tour guide during the 30-mile road trip from Porto airport to a 2012 European Capital of Culture. Now the affection which the Portuguese display for the nation's 900-year-old birthplace is to be shared with a wider audience, as organisers expect a doubling in visitor numbers to one million. But they stress that the cultural programme will be less about marquee names than projects enhancing an enviable community spirit.

On our first night, we experienced an example of that local pride as the rain-sodden masses turned out for a ceremony marking the 10th anniversary of UNESCO's award of World Heritage Site status to the city's historical quarter. The heritage listing recognises the development of specialised building techniques during the Middle Ages, its close links to the establishment of a national identity and language, and it being "exceptionally well preserved". Even in a torrential downpour, the historical centre looks impressive, not least because of the picturesque effect of the nocturnal lights framing windows of properties in the vicinity.

For those on touring holidays, Guimaraes enjoys locational virtues with both its proximity to Porto and the Spanish border just an hour's drive away. There are decent accommodation options and plentiful dining possibilities. The locals say, only half-jokingly, that there is a dried cod recipe for every day of the year and we get to experience a number of examples, notably bacalhau com natas, a fluffy souffle of cod with cream.

Meals are invariably washed down with some acceptable vinho verde, whose "green" nomenclature refers to the youthfulness of the wine. Given the region, a glass of post-prandial port also goes down a treat.