Whether you’re in Brooklyn, Manhattan or further afield, Jewish life is easy to find in New York. Feeling like a village within a city, the Upper West Side — which runs from 59th to 110th streets — is basically a 21st-century answer to a Shtetl. The area, which has housed many of New York’s favourite Jewish sons and daughters, from Jerry Seinfeld to Nora Ephron, has all aspects of Jewish life covered.
If you’re looking for a less touristy (and kosher) alternative to the world-famous Katz’s Deli, Pastrami Queen on W 72nd St is where real New York Jews come to eat, kvetch and argue over whether to put salt or apple sauce on their latkes. Just around the corner is smoked fish maestros Barney Greengrass, whose famous Lox has been tempting New Yorkers for decades.
Synagogue in the Museum at Eldridge Street (Photo: Alamy)
Between the two sits Zabar’s supermarket. Feeling like you’ve strolled inside an old Jewish man’s garage, the store has everything you could need from screwdrivers to babka to gefilte fish, as well some of the best matzo ball soup.
If you’re still not full, it’s just a short subway ride or leisurely walk uptown to Absolute Bagels, which is so popular, its photo on Google Street View shows a 50-person queue. A few minutes further on is Tom’s Restaurant, where the exterior shots of Monk’s diner, the fifth character in Seinfeld, were filmed.
Of course there’s more than food when it comes to Jewish New York. Having gorged on the largely Ashkenazi offerings uptown, across the park on the Upper East Side is Museum Mile, a row of some of the best exhibits anywhere in the world.
The Museum of the City of New York, which chronicles the city’s rise from a Native American settlement to a metropolis of over 10 million, includes some great displays on early Jewish immigrants to Manhattan as well as their contributions to this economic powerhouse. A short walk away, there’s more to discover at The Jewish Museum too.
Just down the street from the museum is Congregation Emanu-El, one of the most impressive synagogue buildings outside Israel. Seen by many as the home of Reform Judaism, the shul boasts a membership of more than 2,000 families and towers over the Park.
While the refined world of upper Manhattan captures today’s Jewish experience, you have to head downtown to explore the roots of New York’s community.
The Tenement Museum in New York (Photo: Alamy)
The Tenement Museum shows how the first Jewish immigrants to Ellis Island lived and work, while in the nearby Museum at Eldridge Street, you can marvel at both the gorgeous 19th- century synagogue it’s housed in, as well as the museum exhibits — plus there’s the option to pick up a walking tour exploring the Lower East Side’s historic Jewish community.
To venture inside more of the city’s historic synagogues, including its two oldest, the Lower East Side Jewish Conservancy runs its own tours of the area too, including sacred sites past and present.
While you’re downtown, bypass Katz’s Deli and walk a few hundred yards up the road to Russ and Daughters or Yonah Schimmels Knish Bakery; the house speciality at the latter is an egg cream, a sort of heimishe take on a root beer float that tastes a lot nicer than it sounds — and an authentic taste of Old Jew York.
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