Voted the best city in the world a few years ago, the colourful buildings lining the cobbled streets of San Miguel de Allende make it arguably the most beautiful in Mexico.
And while most UK visitors to the country stick firmly to the Yucatan peninsula in the east, there are tempting reasons to keep going west. Puerto Vallarta and celebrity favourite Los Cabos should be on any beach-lover’s list — but for those drawn by local culture and heritage, this picturesque city just a few hours north of Mexico City is unmissable.
Take a walk
San Miguel is somewhere which lends itself to strolling the streets, soaking up the atmosphere and browsing the boutiques. Start at the charming tree-lined main square, the plaza known as El Jardin; the streets leading off it are lined with brightly coloured buildings.
You’ll also find historical and architectural walking tours starting here if you enjoy exploring with a guide, but you can simply amble from shop to shop, pausing in cafés, and discovering street art and markets. Head to Cuna de Allende and Aldama for some great boutiques, including jewellery designer Flora Maria and fashion at Casilda Mut.
The jewel in the crown is the Bellas Artes art school with magnificent murals by David Siqueiros, which should not be missed.
You’ll also find several thermal baths to relax in after the walking — La Gruta is one of the most popular — or go birdwatching in El Charco del Ingenio botanical gardens as you walk the trails to the waterfall.
Jewish life
In this city of churches, there’s also a vibrant Jewish presence — more than 1,000 Jews at the Shalom San Miguel shul, including some 70 converts among the congregation.
This old silver mining town in the mountains is home to thousands of English-speaking ex-pats, mainly American, so you needn’t speak Spanish to take part in services, with visitors warmly welcomed.
There’s also a Chabad offering more Orthodox celebrations if the Reform style worship with its added touches of Latin gusto — think bongos during the service — isn’t for you.
Stylish hotels
Whether you fancy traditional luxury or quirkier style, San Miguel is home to Mexico’s top two hotels, according to readers of Conde Nast Traveler.
Taking second place, the Hotel Matilda is packed with contemporary art and has a great spa, plus the main town square and some of the best shopping are nearby.
In top spot sits The Rosewood, brand new despite details throughout the hotel suggesting a centuries-old colonial past, along with lush tropical gardens and wonderfully comfortable beds.
A great base
While there’s plenty to keep you in San Miguel itself, it’s a great base for exploring, including the Unesco World Heritage site of Guanajuato, the state’s second city.
Equally picturesque, but with the energy of a university town, enjoy the soundtrack of mariachi troupes playing in the main plaza, as well as performances at the theatre and opera house. Or soak in the views after taking the funicular up to where a giant statue of a revolutionary hero looks down on the town.
And around 15 miles west of San Miguel de Allende, take a tour out to the Cañada de la Virgen archaeological site with its ancient pyramid structures.
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