The weather in Palermo may well have been almost arctic but inside Il Giardino di Ballaro the warmth was contagious, from the roaring log fire in the lounge to the hospitality of owner Annalise.
It is housed in a converted ancient bakery and stables in the heart of Palermo's old town a few steps from Ballaro, the biggest of the city's four outdoor markets.
I have to admit my heart sank a little when we first approached, as Via Castro is not what you would call a salubrious street, but Palermo is full of narrow crumbling streets and old buildings behind which are some extraordinarily plush dwellings.
Open a door, or walk through an arch and you'll find yourself transported to a parallel universe.