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Dreaming of retirement in the Shtetl-by-the-Sea

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January 26, 2024 11:51
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Karen Skinazi's grandmother Miriam Shuman in her peak Miami years

ByKaren E H Skinazi , Karen E H Skinazi

3 min read

Growing up, we went to Miami every Christmas. It was always the same: First, my dad would say, “no way, not this year.” Business wasn’t great; we couldn’t afford it. Then my sister and I would moan about how all our friends were going to have an amazing time while we were forced to languish in cold, snowy Toronto, and worse, when we got back to school in January, they would all shove their sun-filled vacations in our faces with their perfect tans, shown off, invariably, with highly unseasonable white outfits.

Without fail, the day school let out for winter break, my dad would come home from work early – my sister and I would be sulking in our bedrooms—and he’d say, “Are you packed yet? Come on! Let’s go!” An hour later, like magic, the four of us were stuffed into his car, driving south. Ear-splitting Arabic music would be blaring, my dad would be chain-smoking (windows up), and my mother would be handing us tangerine upon tangerine, reminding us we’d have to finish them all before we hit the border.

Some 26-32 hours later (my dad always tried to beat his previous record by speeding and denying us bathroom breaks), missing half the hair on our heads (my sister and I had little to do but fight in the backseat), we would arrive at the Marco Polo Hotel. Today it’s a Ramada Plaza dwarfed by the surrounding steel-and-glass skyscrapers; back then, at a dozen or so storeys high, the Marco Polo was the tallest building on the Sunny Isles strip. It was no 5* hotel; there were faux leather headboards, stained floral bedspreads, and dizzyingly patterned carpets hiding decades of dirt. But it was our idea of PARADISE. Perched on a bed of white sand, it had a gleaming blue swimming pool with high and low diving boards, a kiddie pool, a cinema, a disco, a crafting room, a hair salon, an arcade, a pizzeria, and all our Florida friends. For two weeks, we were set free—to feed endless quarters into Centipede and Ms Pacman and Frogger (much time was spent checking the Coke machine to see if anyone had left change behind), to try smoking a cigarette (stolen from a parent) in the staircase, or to buy soft serve ice cream at the pool bar and curl up on a deck chair with the latest Sweet Valley High (they always came out in the US about a month before we got them in Canada).

I LOVED IT.