Paddling past giant water lilies in my kayak, kingfishers flitted by in brief flashes of iridescent blue, while purple swamp hens ventured through the lotus flowers, appearing to walk on the water itself. Dawn had just broken when we set off on an hour-long kayak tour of Wanamaduwa Tank, a man-made lake that’s thought to date back to the third century, and one of many in the area built to irrigate the local paddy fields.

With my knowledgeable guide Kalhara pointing out some more of the birdlife, including egrets and herons, it was a chance to discover a quieter side of Sri Lanka, away from the more well-known tourist hotspots.

The country’s ancient cities, vast temples and pilgrimage sites are both impressive and unmissable, but as well as exploring Sri Lanka’s culture and heritage along the main tourist trail, there is plenty to experience in a quieter way, closer to nature and a traditional way of life, not to mention some tempting accommodation options that are destinations in themselves.

My first stop was Uga Ulagalla, a beautifully restored 150-year-old mansion surrounded by paddy fields and lily ponds, and once home to local nobility. The 58-acre estate is now made up of 25 colonial-style villas, each with a private plunge pool. Celebrity guests there have included Jude Law.

Just a few miles from Unesco World Heritage Site Anuradhapura, the ancient Sri Lankan capital Uga Ulagalla is not far from the hill temple complex and the ancient forest hermitage of Ritigala, too.

But while the hotel can, of course, arrange excursions to these, guests are also encouraged to explore a little closer to home. The dawn and dusk kayak tours of Wanamaduwa Tank on the edge of the property is just one example.

Ulagalla Bicycle Ride 2

Cycling at Uga Ulagalla (Photo: Uga Escapes)

After breakfast in the open-air restaurant on the first floor of the mansion, overlooking the pool, I headed off for a cycle tour of the local village Athungama with another of the hotel’s guides, Rankoth.

The easy, flat circuit of around three miles was taken at a slow pace to soak up every detail. Rankoth pointed out passing birds and wildlife, and a tree where the rubbed-away bark showed that an elephant had been scratching itself.

Passing simple village houses, we ended up at the site of a huge ruined temple, where a smaller, modern version has now been built, looked after by a resident monk. Rankoth explained that villagers have a rota to bring meals for the monk and offerings to Buddha.

After we had explored the area (barefoot as is respectful — and by now getting quite hot on the soles of the feet!), the monk tied a white thread onto our wrists with a blessing, symbolic of peace and good fortune, before we cycled back.

Lunch was in the hotel’s organic garden, but rather than sitting back to wait for it, I was helping with the cooking as part of another of the experiences on offer. After picking okra from the garden in which much of the produce for the kitchen is grown, I was shown how to cut this and star fruit before adding onions, garlics, herbs and spices to traditional clay pots, which were heated over an open flame.

The chefs demonstrated which spices to add before leaving me to have a go at adding them in the proportions as I saw fit to okra and star fruit side dishes, which accompanied curry and rice. Even if I say so myself, I did pretty well for a first-timer, and was presented with a souvenir apron and certificate.

Ulagalla Villa - Plungle Pool 2

Villa at Uga Ulagalla with plunge pool (Photo: Uga Escapes)

With the worst of the midday heat behind us, there was a chance to see another slice of local life on a discovery drive with head naturalist Katherina. As our 4x4 drove to nearby Nachchaduwa Lake, we passed locals going about their day-to-day life — bathing, washing and fishing in the water — as well as spotting birds, cattle and tortoises, before stopping to watch the sun go down with a glass of champagne.

At certain times of the year (mainly July and August), you’re also likely to see elephants during the drive. When Covid left the hotel empty, Katherina decided to set up an elephant-research programme — initially as something do to pass the time until guests returned — tracking where the elephants go and logging their behaviour.

The hotel has since worked with the locals to set up a fence to help protect their homes and crops from the damage caused by these huge animals, which in turn means that the elephants are less likely to be harmed by villagers seeking to protect their livelihoods.

The Uga Escapes properties pride themselves on giving back to the local communities. Sri Lankan-owned and run, a large proportion of their employees come from the local villages, especially at Uga Ulagalla. At sister hotel Uga Chena Huts, they have sponsored local young men to undertake a specialist guiding course in South Africa before returning to work as rangers at the property.

Sustainability is an important focus too; each property uses renewable energy where possible, with solar panels alongside water- treatment plants and reuse systems. At Ulagalla, there is a tap outside the property where villagers can come to help themselves to the treated water, as many local houses don’t have running water. There is almost no plastic in either resort, with glass bottles in the rooms filled with the treated water.

Ulagalla’s second restaurant, Kamatha, employs women from the village to cook, too. A kamatha is a section of bare land in the heart of the paddy fields where farmers and their families would traditionally gather for a meal, as well as a place for festivals and celebrations related to the rice cultivation and harvest.

Our dinner featured more than a dozen rural Sri Lankan dishes in a small house made of clay and thatched roof, where we ate with our hands (somewhat messily in my case) as is traditional, under the moon and the subtle lighting hanging in the trees.

Uga Chena huts Aerial 1

Aerial view of Uga Chena Huts (Photo: Uga Escapes)

Almost 200 miles away in the south of the country, Uga Chena Huts sits in the “buffer zone” of the famous Yala National Park. Limited building is allowed in the zone but it is still largely untouched and, most importantly, inside the fence of the national park.

Guests can spot monkeys in the trees, and it isn’t unheard of for the hotel reception staff to find an elephant standing in their pretty pond or guests to see one drinking out of their plunge pools.

A chena hut was traditionally a simple shelter but the rooms here are far from simple. Each of the 14 spacious and luxurious cabins has its own terrace and pool, plus enormous beds, freestanding baths and efficient, quiet air-conditioning. The huts are connected by wooden walkways through lush foliage, along with the main pool, spa, restaurant and bar.

But while it’s an idyllic place to relax, a stay at Chena Huts is all about the wildlife with twice-daily game drives into Yala National Park to spot some of 44 different mammal species and more than 100 different birds that live there — the prize sighting being a leopard.

The park has one of the highest population densities of leopards anywhere in the world, and peering through my binoculars, I was delighted to spy one lounging in a tree.

Up-close highlights included large groups of monkeys, buffalo keeping cool in the water, strutting peacocks, deer and stags, wild boar, basking crocodiles and best of all, several elephants, including a baby, probably aged about two months, according to head ranger Haritha who accompanied me.

elephants 20221201 154003 CREDIT Catherine Cooper

Elephant with baby (Photo: Catherine Cooper)

Between the game drives, which take place early morning and late afternoon when the animals are most active, there are plenty of other excursions and activities available, including a visit to the second-century Sithulpawwa Temple, star-gazing, beach drives and bush walks.

Whether you fill your day or enjoy chilling out by the pool, the day ends with an evening sundowner drink before dinner by a bonfire on the beach.

After a difficult few years, Sri Lanka is very ready to welcome tourists once again. But instead of simply ticking off the main sites, take some time also to explore in a quieter way, on foot, by bike or by water. Slowing down has never been so rewarding.

Getting There

Direct flights from Heathrow to Colombo cost from around £750 with Sri Lankan Airlines.

Seven nights for two people in a one-bedroom villa with a pool at Uga Ulagalla cost from around £2,815 B&B.

Seven nights for two people in a luxury cabin with a private pool at Uga Chena Huts cost from around £8,125 all-inclusive.

Like this? Sign up for more with our JC Life newsletter here.

From fabulous recipes to parenting tips, travel and West End entertainment; insightful interviews and much more: there’s more to the JC than news!