Expectations are always going to be high of a de Savary hotel, given the entrepreneur's reputation for making over old properties and infusing them with a touch of quirky class. This is as true of the Old Swan and Minster Mill as any of his previous hostelries, but this one comes with a few problems.
This pair of historic properties, separated by a slightly hairy road in the middle of a lovely Cotswold stone village, was never designed to offer the five-star accommodation proposed today. The mill was a working establishment until 1924, and those seeking historic charm will find it concentrated in The Old Swan opposite. Harold and Mary Wilson spent their honeymoon in this 15th century inn, where Winston Churchill is among other notable past visitors.
Our room in an outhouse of this period property was lavished with a wealth of beams, although not much natural light, and the cosy bathroom needed some skilful navigation. However, our golden retriever was treated like royalty, down to the offer of a chef-cooked doggie dinner as an alternative to the top-end proprietary canine meal provided.
Contemporary decor is offered across the road, where the remnants of the ancient mill are now a conference centre. surrounded by rooms which once served business travellers in a previous incarnation. They are thus a little too compact to be considered luxurious, but there are rooms overlooking the river equipped with balconies containing firepits which would make a fine romantic retreat.
Dinner at The Old Swan is great if you stick to signature fish and chips, delivered with particular aplomb, and other classic dishes, but be prepared for service which can be uninformed and even chaotic, if pleasant. Do leave time to explore the extensive grounds on the mill side, and perhaps enjoy fly-fishing on the babbling brook itself. The hotel makes a fine base for visiting both Oxford and the lovely villages of the Cotswolds,of which Burford is very close by.
