As cruise ships get ever bigger, floating resorts replete with waterparks, Broadway-style theatres, nightclubs and kids’ clubs, there’s a growing move to embrace a more intimate alternative. Because when it comes to cruising, small is bigger than ever.
As the industry bounces back from restrictions and social distancing, smaller boutique ships seem the obvious choice in the new age of travel, with fewer passengers — around 30+ is the norm — and more space a major draw, along with off-the-beaten-track itineraries, less queuing and a more exclusive vibe.
With more travellers looking to satisfy the pent-up desire to explore, as well as invest in new experiences and bucket-list adventures, ROL Cruise has seen a 90 per cent increase in the numbers looking at small-ship cruising on its website, and a 17.5 per cent rise in the number of bookings.
For those hoping to travel more sustainably, choosing to cruise on a smaller ship will automatically leave a smaller footprint, and reduce its impact on fragile destinations.
But perhaps the best thing about a small ship cruise is that you’ll visit more exclusive ports of call, which bigger ships aren’t able to access — perfect if you like the sound of discovering lesser-visited destinations with no risk of over-tourism.
Variety Galileo docked in Paros credit R Barnes
Galileo docked in Paros (Photo: Rebecca Barnes)
And you needn’t venture far to discover some of the best. The Greek islands are perennially popular, while the stunning coastline and islands of the Adriatic, with their fascinating history and great weather, threaten to steal Greece’s crown as one of the most popular cruise destinations.
“Croatia small-ship cruising has been an incredible seller,” reveals Paul Melinis, MD of APT Luxury River Cruises & Tours. “We’ve responded to demand by quadrupling capacity this year.”
With sailings and ships to suit all budgets, including boutique yachts, we tested the waters in both Greece and Croatia.
Greece with Variety Cruises
The fleet of boutique boats from Athens-based Variety Cruises includes traditional sailing ships and contemporary yachts — perfect if you’re looking to get back to the essentials of exploring by sea.
I’m sailing on Galileo, a 49-passenger, three-masted ship, following the Jewels of the Cyclades itinerary. It’s not flashy or high-tech, but that’s part of its charm: traditional sails, wooden promenades, a well-stocked bar and a spacious sun deck.
sun deck credit R Barnes
Sun deck aboard Variety Galileo (Photo: Rebecca Barnes)
My cabin features a large porthole with sea view, dark wood furniture and accents of blue.
There’s minimal storage — one medium-sized case will just about fit under the bed — but the bathroom is surprisingly spacious. There’s also a flatscreen TV, a rather retro radio, mini-fridge and basic air conditioning, all spotlessly maintained on a daily basis.
While some ships boast of their seemingly endless array of restaurants, my half-board arrangement leaves me free to enjoy leisurely meals ashore and make the most of the ship staying in many ports till the early hours. With breakfast and either single-seating lunches or dinners on board, the food on the ship is excellent too.
Along the way, we discover some real island gems, such as laidback Folegandros, enjoying glorious Greek salads and sipping local wine in a shady square in the capital, Chora. I kayak off beautiful Krios beach in Paros, and sample street food in the Cycladic capital of Syros, before wandering the streets lined with distinctive Venetian buildings.
Guests get to use the ship’s snorkels, kayaks and paddleboards when on swim stops, which happen nearly every day and are straight off the boat, or by tender to the nearest beach.
We also get to feel like VIPs in Santorini, docking in a prime position in Fira old port while bigger cruise ships drop anchor further out. And that flexibility comes in handy after missing the last sea bus back to the ship in Mykonos; we’re not worried in the slightest, as Galileo isn’t sailing till dawn.
Mykonos credit R Barnes
Mykonos (Photo: Rebecca Barnes)
One other difference is that the itinerary is subject to change, as increasing winds — if you’re sailing in the Cyclades as I am — mean the ship may need to change course.
While the captain is keen to keep to schedule, the crew have many alternative island gems up their nautical sleeves, so I’m happy to go with the flow.
Unlike traditional cruise ships, there are no stabilisers, so you can often feel the swell of the waves, especially if you’re cruising in July and August when the strength of the Meltemi wind bites.
But it’s perfect for someone who wants to spend as much time as possible in a destination, and who’s not bothered about last-minute schedule changes. It’s also ideal if you are looking for lots of flexibility and freedom, plus the obvious benefits of travelling with a line that really knows Greece.
An eight-day Jewels of the Cyclades sailing on MS Galileo costs from around £2,000 per person. varietycruises.com
Croatia with APT Travelmarvel
Boutique yacht Princess Eleganza, built in 2015, was refurbished earlier this year with public areas, restaurant and exterior undergoing a makeover, in time for my APT Travelmarvel voyage, following the Adriatic Coast & Dalmatian Islands itinerary.
With room for 36 guests, the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, and my cosy en-suite cabin does not feel cramped, despite its two small portholes. Along with exuberant cruise director Cheri, the star of the show is the scenery, and the ship’s spacious sun and promenade decks are the perfect spots for drinking in the beauty of the Adriatic coastline and islands.
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Dubrovnik (Photo: Unsplash)
Like on Galileo, the itinerary is half-board with breakfast and either lunches or dinners on board, where meals feature fresh Mediterranean cuisine when you’re not dining ashore.
The ship can slip into secluded harbours, and I relish the freedom of stepping ashore to drink and dine, while a number of overnight spots mean there’s no rushing back for a departure before midnight.
It’s also a bonus to have shore excursions included as Croatia’s history is fascinating.
I love exploring the bohemian coastal resort of Komiza in Vis, and learning about the faded airstrip in the centre of the island, once used for emergency landings by Second World War aircraft in distress.
Another evening, I climb a precarious ladder to the rooftop of Massimo cocktail bar in breezy Korcula, as well as indulging in some forest bathing at Krka National Park in Sibenik, and witnessing a spectacular sunset in Zadar, famously praised by Alfred Hitchcock as the most beautiful in the world.
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Krka (Photo: Unsplash)
Another highlight is Rab: often lauded as the best tourist destination in the Adriatic, it’s easy to see why with its pristine old town, glorious medieval architecture and long coastline — we make the most of the late-summer warmth and enjoy sundowners before heading back to the ship.
There is only one off-the-ship swim stop during this itinerary, which some guests feel isn’t enough, although I am more than happy chilling out on the sun deck and soaking up the views.
Unlike the Greek islands, the sea is generally calm too, although we do have to battle with gusty winds one evening, which delays our arrival into Korcula. And while docking is usually in a prime position, most days this is carried out alongside similar-sized yachts, and you may have to walk through two or three to get ashore.
But this immersive itinerary is perfect for those looking to travel deeper in a destination, to learn about the history and culture of the ports of call, as well as enjoying leisurely evenings ashore.
An eight-day Adriatic Coast & Dalmatian Islands itinerary from Dubrovnik to Zagreb, costs from £2,195 per person, including flights. aptouring.co.uk
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