It may be the modern face of India, but at heart Bangalore is still firmly wedded to the great days of the Raj. Which explains why its best hotel, the Leela Palace, unashamedly takes its inspiration from a maharajah's palace, recalling those glory days rather than the gleaming glass structures of the IT multinationals that strut their stuff on the outskirts of the city.

This hotel has a better tropical garden than the nearby Lalbagh botanical park, which is Bangalore's most famous attraction; it's lusher and much more beautifully cared for - even if it is entirely man-made.

And the rooms are befitting of a modern-day maharajah, with gorgeous bespoke inlaid furniture, elaborately carved screens and gorgeous, little framed artworks of princely jewellery in the corridors contributing to a more gracious atmosphere than most modern five-star hotels can manage.

Dining is a big deal here; Jamavar, specialises in the north Indian food they so love in South India, served on a terrace overlooking the gardens.

The comfy, laid-back outdoor section of the otherwise very clubby and masculine Library Lounge makes a great place for an aperitif or nightcap.

RATES: Doubles from £145 per night www.theleela.com

But for breakfast you can't beat Citrus, overlooking the pool and patio, with different stations for freshly made Mediterranean and Middle Eastern specialities, not to mention the dosa masala pancakes that are Bangalore's signature breakfast dish.

There is also a branch of New York's famous Le Cirque restaurant on the fifth floor.

Complimentary yoga as the sun rises in a pavilion above the pool is a wonderful way to start the day, and the hotel has an excellent spa.

Given the eye-watering room rates of posh hotels elsewhere in the country, the Leela Palace is an absolute steal at £115 per night, which inclues what may be the country's finest breakfast.