Now a new BA direct flight has taken the hassle out of getting from London to Nashville, the biggest conundrum about a trip to Music City is where to stay.
The many attractions of this songwriters’ boomtown, a magnet for Johnny Cash to Dolly Parton to the Everly Brothers, are spread over several neighbourhoods, but the Fairlane hotel makes an ideal base for most of the must-sees.
One of several new downtown hotel openings, it’s an easy stroll from the Ryman Auditorium, historic home of the Grand Ole Opry, the live music bars of Broadway and the world-class Country Music Hall of Fame.
But what really distinguishes the Fairlane from its shiny new neighbours is a pleasingly hamishe feel, which has less do with the influence of Jewish co-owner Ethan Orley than with exceptionally friendly staff, always ready to welcome guests ‘home’.
Housed in the landmark International Style building, a spare 1960s skeleton erected to house a now-defunct bank, floor-to-ceiling windows ensuring city views are a prime feature of guestrooms.
Built-in furniture in dark slatted wood makes the most of space while preserving a minimalist ethic, although the “peek-a-boo” marble showers are a potential design faux pas — they won’t do for those wishing to wash with any level of privacy. The loos at least are separate, with properly closing doors.
Fast Wi-Fi is not the only amenity which comes free of charge; guests get a voucher for free morning coffee which can be delivered to the room, where mini-bars contain locally-sourced snacks as well as drinks.
Caffeine aficionados will do better downstairs at the hotel’s Union Teller counter though, serving US hipster favourite, Stumptown Coffee. And for breakfast, look no further than across the lobby to the only branch of the famous Mile End Delicatessen outside New York.
This is a great place to people-watch while breakfasting on house-cured lox, Nova Scotia smoked salmon, dill-infused cream cheese and decent bagels; the “appetising platter” for two is huge enough to feed the whole family.
If deli food seems out of character in Dixie, fabulous Southern breakfasts are also available round the corner at Woolworth on 5th, a beautiful Art Deco-style remake of the famous five and dime store, now an upmarket bar and diner.
Up the hill lies the Musicians’ Hall of Fame, which tells the story of rock and soul (and the legendary players who launched those genres) every bit as thrillingly as its better-known cousin celebrating country music and its roots.
Today’s state-of-the-art Grand Old Opry is now located in the suburbs, so you’ll need a car to discover it for yourself, along with the famous Bluebird Cafe where Taylor Swift was first discovered.
And with the Fairlane hotel’s valet at the ready to whisk away your car at the front door, you’ll never need to worry about city parking — or have any reason to sing the blues during your stay.
