Perched high up in the gods of the ancient Theatre of Epidavros, one of the best-preserved Greek structures in existence, I listened to someone exhale 40 storeys below me. This extraordinary acoustic feat, I’m told, is unable to be replicated in any modern reproduction.
The immense amphitheatre, capable of seating 14,000 people, was the highlight of my visit to Epidavros (or Epidaurus), an ancient healing sanctuary dedicated to Asclepius, the Greek God of medicine. The city was once famous across the ancient world for its advanced healing practices, and the theatre was instrumental in promoting wellbeing for patients.
Epidavros
The amphitheatre at Epidavros
Today, this fascinating site takes more than two hours by road from Athens, but for me just a 10-minute hop from the tiny harbour where Oneida, my luxurious private chartered Lagoon 52 catamaran floated serenely, my crew busy preparing dinner onboard, ready for my return.
The very idea of a private yacht charter with your own captain and crew might make you assume this form of cruising is firmly in the orbit of A-lister Hollywood superstars and far beyond the budgetary means of mere mortals. Yet this five-cabin catamaran — with three crew including a captain and chef — is a surprisingly affordable option when you compare it to the cost of five cabins aboard an all-inclusive cruise liner for a week.
Oneida on the waters
My shipmates and I joined Oneida at the bustling Athens Alimos Marina, home to most of the major private yachts in the eastern Mediterranean heading out to cruise the Greek Islands. Captain Sotiris (So for short), chef Kostas and chief steward Penelope were waiting to greet us on board with a cool welcome prosecco and some tasty nibbles while our luggage was taken to our ensuite cabins, leaving us to simply sit and relax out on the shaded dining area.
So far so perfect then. And I won’t deny a little frisson at the prospect of becoming part of the yachtie set. Even if it was just a temporary promotion.
In advance of our charter date, we’d listed any dietary or allergy issues and food and drinks preferences, (an essential part in making this a truly bespoke experience) so chef Kostas was fully locked and loaded to weave some on-board culinary magic. All that was left for us to do before we set off was chat about our route with Captain So.
“There are some headwinds forecast over the next few days, so I suggest we explore some sheltered parts of the Saronic Gulf like Poros, Epidavros, Hydra, Agistri, and Aegina, then if we have time, perhaps Porto Cheli in the Peloponnese and some secluded beaches and coves. Does that sound OK with you?”
Well, this was a first. A skipper asking us to decide our route. Of course we agreed, and within minutes we cast off and were on our way.
As we made our way out to sea, I took the opportunity to have a look around. Oneida has plenty of deck space for sunbathing, across the bow or up top behind the wheelhouse, while the covered aft deck is the dining area and drop off point for all the water toys; snorkelling, standup and wake boarding and fishing — all of them included.
There’s also a hitched rib tender with outboard motor for popping across to harbours when no docking slots are available, or perhaps for visiting a remote beach. Inside, another comfy lounge is next to chef Kosta’s impossibly compact galley. A tiny space, yet magical culinary feasts emerged at regular intervals.
Perhaps the biggest compromise to a typical cruise liner experience is below deck. The five guest cabins are certainly compact, but all have air conditioning, private ensuite facilities, double beds, fine linens, towels and luxury toiletries. However, there is limited wardrobe space. But let’s face it, this is a private charter with barefoot luxury, so the official dress code is t shirts and shorts.
Ship ahoy: Oneida
The writer's ensuite cabin
Following our Epidavros outing, we were back onboard and in the hands of Penelope and Kostas for our first dinner out on the aft deck. Penelope’s very civilized G&T aperitifs were followed by a mighty family-style feast which Kostas proudly announced was “from my grandmother’s recipes”.
A starter of fresh cream cheese with beetroot from the Ionian island of Lefkada, was followed by a fish version of traditional souvlaki: sea bass skewers and turmeric rice. With a choice of local and French wines, it wasn’t long before the approaching sunset was well and truly toasted. It was all topped off with home-made baklava. utterly delicious.
Dinner time aboard Oneida: sea bass skewers
It wasn’t long before our life on board became a welcomely familiar routine. Some of our group joined Penelope for an early morning yoga class on the top deck before a freshly prepared breakfast (at a time to suit) always with a surprise or two from Kostas plus, of course, a few personal requests. Captain So stopped occasionally for some water fun in small bays, or when spotting some sea life.
A lunchtime anchoring at Moni Island bay was particularly memorable, a beautiful uninhabited island with wild deer and friendly peacocks roaming around. The soft sandy beach and crystal-clear turquoise water was inviting and some of the group took stand-up paddleboards over for a nap in the sun. I found it amusing when we were joined at anchor by other occasional yachts. Comparisons were drawn, prices were compared. Oh, how quick we became yachtie elitists!
We would sail on some more until we arrived at our overnight anchor, usually a small harbour where we could stroll around after dinner and take in the local sights and sounds and maybe a bar or two. Every meal on board was different (Kostas has an impressive culinary lineage), as were the sunsets.
Poros island at sunset
One night we anchored at Poros, a perfect picture postcard Greek island. Narrow streets, whitewashed houses and steep stone steps up to an ancient clocktower with fantastic views. The harbour was lined with shops, bars and tavernas while fancy yachts and catamarans bobbed and weaved at the dock. We all regrouped later that night on the aft deck for a nightcap or three, while Captain So regaled us with some salty sea stories of his many adventures, and even played a few tunes on his harmonica.
Our last night was spent moored in Aegina, a popular island as it isn’t far from Athens. The harbour was full, but luckily the skipper made some calls and convinced the powers that be that he’d spotted a tight but makeable mooring space. He made it, aided by some local seafarers, with just a few inches to spare! The island is famous for producing its own variety of pistachio called koilarati which were available in various forms from stalls and shops all over the harbour.
Aegina in the Saronic Gulf
That night Captain So joined us for dinner, with plenty of traditional Greek toasts were undertaken over some fine local ouzo, after which the skipper revealed his obsession for board games. One of his favourites was brought to the table and we all played late into the night.
When we finally returned to Alimos Marina it was an emotional farewell, leaving behind our taste of the high life and our exceptional crew. But what stood out most was how they quickly adapted to all our individual needs and habits — whether to leave now or wait a bit longer, to visit this place or that next, making it an entirely bespoke experience from start to finish.
Having tasted the private charter lifestyle — and been thoroughly spoilt along the way — I’m not sure I’ll see any other type of cruise through the same lens ever again.
Getting There
A week’s long Greek yacht charter from Helm, including a five-cabin catamaran, crew, all food and drink plus VAT costs around £4,200 per couple. helm.yt
The company also offered crewed and skippered yachts elsewhere around the globe, including the Caribbean and Thailand, as well as Croatia, Italy and Turkey.
