Even the geckos are an improbably bright turquoise in Aruba. Scuttling through the undergrowth, flashes of blue as the sun catches them, this discovery was only the first of many surprises on this Caribbean island.
A self-governing part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, English and Spanish are spoken just as often as Dutch and local language Papiamento — itself a musical melting pot, including influences from Portuguese Sephardi Jews.
And while there are those idyllic palm-fringed beaches alongside the Caribbean sea, shading from bright aqua to deep sapphire, the desert interior is home to a national park with ancient caves, eye-catching rock formations, and dramatic rows of tall cacti stretching off into the distance.
Perhaps most surprising is the fact that this small island, just 69 miles square — half the size of the Isle of Wight — is home to both a long-established Jewish community and Chabad. Jews have lived on Aruba for over 250 years since Moses Salomon Levie Maduro and his family helped begin the colonisation of the island in 1754, when they moved from nearby Curacao.
Other Jewish families followed, and although the community has always been small — only 23 Jews were registered in 1867 — it has endured. Today, there are around 40 Jewish families living permanently on the island; the Beth Israel synagogue near capital Oranjestad has around 100 members including many who winter on the island.
Mingling Ashkenazi and Sephardi traditions, the shul was consecrated in 1962. Its cool and airy feel, palm trees visible through the window decorated with a Magen David, is a far cry from the historic sand-floored synagogues of some other Caribbean islands. Explore a little further and you’ll find an Old Jewish Cemetery in Oranjestad too, where the oldest of the handful of graves dates back to 1562.
But it’s not history which draws most people to Aruba. Dubbed the islas inutiles or useless islands by the first Spanish to arrive, early colonisers left little trace behind; the 18th century Dutch fort is Aruba’s oldest building.
Instead, you can easily fill your days exploring on land and sea, from feeding rescued donkeys at the Donkey Sanctuary to getting up close to an ostrich at the Ostrich Farm, and realising just how enthusiastically they peck. Or hold one of the tickly striped caterpillars at the Butterfly Farm before watching the huge owl butterflies flapping erratically through the air, quite literally drunk on fermented fruit juice.
We boarded one of the off-road jeeps from De Palm Tours to explore much of the island, venturing where no hire car can go. At Ayo Rocks, you can make out an earless rabbit and King Kong in the monolithic shapes — goats wander along the trails, and there are ancient petroglyphs to be found if you climb up further.
Not far away are the island’s natural rock bridges. Battered by the ceaseless pounding of the wilder north coast sea, one has collapsed entirely into the waves, but the others still soar above the Caribbean and coral-strewn black volcanic rock beaches.
And further east, the Arikok National Park covers almost 20% of the island. There’s more hiking to try here, between those countless cacti, plus several limestone cavernss. In Fontein cave, 19th century graffiti is scratched into the rock (along with more recent examples) alongside deep reddish pictographs left by Caquetios, the island’s pre-European inhabitants.
Then on to Baby Beach in the far south-east, a perfect curve of pale sand against the turquoise sea. Calm clear shallows for paddling give it its name, although swim out a little and there’s brightly coloured reef life and — if you’re luckier than me — sea turtles.
That’s just the first of many snorkelling opportunities. You can even stock up on reef-safe sunscreen on a visit to the Aruba Aloe factory; the oldest aloe company in the world, the plant features on the Aruban flag.
Not far from Spanish lagoon, where pirates used to hide after a spot of marauding, lies Mangel Halto. Lined with mangroves, you can kayak through the waves as well as exploring the reef or diving to a shallow wreck. According to tradition, there are five separate shades of blue to be see in the waters, which gave me the perfect excuse to sit on a clifftop bench high above the small coves and count them.
Further along the coast lies the heart of Aruba’s tourist areas, laid-back Eagle Beach with its lower rise hotels and Palm Beach, a sea of loungers, sightseeing boat tours, restaurants where you can eat with your feet in the sand, plus the island’s biggest hotels.
Checking into the Hilton, I felt we’d chosen well. Beautifully landscaped grounds with two pools lead to the beach and its three towers found a balance between great views from the balcony of our spacious eighth floor room without dominating the coast.
After breakfast at Laguna restaurant — champagne optional — watched from the tranquil pond by koi carp and an optimistic heron, we found fresh fish tacos at Gilligan’s Seafood Shack and wonderful salmon poke bowls at Mira Solo bar for lunch before miso glazed sea bass at Sunset Grille, watching the sun dip molten orange behind the palm trees.
Our days passed in relaxed Caribbean fashion, moving from lounger to pool to beach — you can rent cabanas and reserve the beach palapas as well as borrowing Kindles, board games and beach toys.
With those temptations, my daughter turned down the chance to check into the kids’ club, whose activities ranged from jewellery making to scavenger hunts and water games. I followed her example, breaking out my own book instead of trying the resort activities, from paddle boarding and yoga to bike tours.
But I couldn’t resist the lure of more snorkelling, heading to De Palm Island to discover the reefs there. The small private island is a five-minute boat ride from the quay near Oranjestad.
Along with a buffet, grill and all-inclusive drinks — although only limited vegetarian food — there’s a small waterpark and activities for adults, including a zip wire and banana boats, older kidswith Snuba and a SeaTrek underwater helmet walk for age eight plus.
And off the island, among with the Caribbean’s more familiar reef life, blue parrotfish glide through the waves. A final splash of deep electric blue to discover on fascinating Aruba.
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