London offers the biggest range of Israeli flavours this side of Tel Aviv. From Ottolenghi’s huge colourful salads and huge flavours through the creamy hummus and crunchy falafel of stand-up shawarma joints to the sophisticated spin on traditional techniques offered by Assaf Granit’s collection of eateries — it’s like the best Israeli breakfast buffet.
However, the arrival of Israel-born Roy Ner and his Mayfair restaurant, Jeru, has taken things to another level.
Ner comes to us from Sydney, where he had a successful career for 18 years, racing his way up the kitchen hierarchy at fine-dining restaurant, Aria in record time and then going on to open a number of his own restaurants.
He’d first been contacted about Jeru in February 2019 and ended up planning the space virtually from Downunder while borders were closed. He was finally able to physically put it together when he arrived in London in July 2021.
The Berkeley Street restaurant (in sauntering distance of Sexy Fish in one direction and Novikov in the other) fills a huge space, which breaks down into a coffee bar at the entrance (open from 10am) through to the restaurant with its open kitchen and downstairs bar. The vibe is luxe Mayfair with a twist of Middle East.
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Jerusalem roots rocked
We sit facing the long, open kitchen where chefs glide around each other with calm urgency. I’d been invited in to taste the Chef’s Selection menu but as the meat isn’t kosher, and my companion, broadcaster and husband, Mr P is pescatarian) we’d opted for a bespoke vegetarian with plus fish version. The maître d’ scurried off to print us off our personalised hybrid.
Anticipating a feast, we’d arrived ready to eat the table and fell upon the hot-from-the-woodfired-oven, chewy sourdough with its side of sweet truffle honey and cultured (tangy tasting) butter. I could have demolished it again.
No fear of us going hungry though. The food kept on coming — green figs and goat’s curd slathered with peppery olive oil and sticky pomegranate molasses were swiftly followed by light haloumi, ring-shaped doughnuts which were light and showered with freshly shaved black truffle (no expense spared); heirloom courgettes were thinly shaved discs neatly layered over a statement, black plate and topped with crunchy shards of toasted almond and creamy vegan feta.
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Statement plates set off simple vegetable dishes
'Mom’s shish barak' (two ravioli-style dumplings) sat on a pool of creamy leek puree with more of those crunchy almonds. Hasselback (Jerusalem) artichokes were, although visually stunning, a delicious feat of knife skills. Crunchy, creamy mouthfuls of neatly scored, darkly roasted roots, hit the spot and evidenced the care that would have been taken in preparing them.
Our standout winning dish was the ultimate comfort food — Levant murtabak (Arab fried bread) stuffed with gooey cheese with a side of lime labneh, showered with red chilli flakes and topped with fresh mint salsa.
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Flying fish
Fish is delivered direct from the boat two days a week. Ner says it’s with him within 16 hours of coming off the boat. He hangs it whole or butterflied to dry it out, which tenderises the flesh and dries out the skin without it developing a strong flavour. Our butterflied sea bass floats on a fresh cucumber salsa studded with orange pearls of salty salmon roe.
Running out of room by this point, it was fortunate the home stretch was easy to demolish. A tower of sorbets were an architectural feat. (Those with tweens or teens and familiar with children’s programme In the Night Garden will wonder if Makka Pakka was Ner's muse.)
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A tower of sorbets and aubergine-inspired dessert
Mango and lychee flavours popped with zingy flavour and made a perfect contrast to the goat’s cheese flavoured base. A brownie-style bake successfully paired chocolate with aubergine (who knew) which was then topped with slightly savoury and at the same time, smoky, baba ghanoush and a crunchy seeded tuile.
Jeru is a whole new take on the Middle Eastern menu — Ner describes it as Mid/Med (Middle Eastern/Mediterranean) as he borrows from both. It’s a special occasion place as the bill will definitely match the swish surroundings but it’s food crafted with care and skill that you would and could not make at home - nor will you get elsewhere.
More info at: jeru For better photos than mine check out jerulondon
[Non kosher]
